Usually, I know how many stops I want to shift the image and
just do that. If I am not sure I bracket. I think I could
pop off three shots faster than you could meter the scene
with your spot meter. But then, I am not a perfectionist.
I've always felt that if the customer is satisfied with the
photo it is good enough.
--Tom
PAUL STENQUIST wrote:
>
> In many instances, a spotmeter can be the most valuable tool in the box,
> since it allows you to place the value of a particular part of the
> picture. For example, you can ensure shadow detail if that is critical,
> by metering the shadow area and placing it at the level you wish to
> achieve. In some cases you may want to push the shadow all the way to
> zone 5 (your 16% gray value, in other instances you might want it at
> zone 3, a level where detail is just barely discernible.
> Paul
>
> Tom Rittenhouse wrote:
> >
> > Well, evey incident meter I have used was also a reflective
> > meter. Spot meter? Never found a need for one. Usually, get
> > by fine with an incident meter and some common sense.
> > --Tom
> >
> > Shel Belinkoff wrote:
> > >
> > > Bob Walkden wrote:
> > >
> > > > Every photographer should have an incident light meter.
> > >
> > > ... as well as a spotmeter and a reflective light meter, I should
> > > add. There are numerous situations where one or another may be the
> > > better meter for a subject.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Shel Belinkoff
> > > mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > There are no rules for good photographs,
> > > there are only good photographs.
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> >
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