It looks like a colour temperature (CT) problem. The main subjects are primarily lit by incandescent light, which produces the "golden hue" when shot with "daylight" colour film. For more info on CT, see:
www.aeimages.com/learn/color-correction.html In the future, you might try using Tungsten film, or a "cooling" colour conversion (CC) filter, or a more powerful flash. The first two solutions are only good when there is enough ambient light to illuminate the source without using flash, and so they won't work for many indoor action shots. Tungsten films are relatively slow (Kodak Portra 100T, Fuji NPL 160), and you have to increase EV to compensate for a CC filter (e.g. +2 EV for 80A). B&W is much better suited to this kind of photography, as you can use ISO 3200 film (which I like) and CT is not a problem (except maybe a panchromatic Y2 filter for blue/green balance). You might get decent results with Portra 800 and a +1 EV 80C CC filter on a 50/1.7 or 50/1.4 lens, but you'd have to get pretty close to the stage. If you use a more powerful flash at a distance from the stage, then you should consider an off-camera setup with an adjustable flash bracket to avoid redeye - the flash should be 2.5 degrees or more off the lens-to-image sight line, and so the camera-to-flash offset distance has to increase as you get further away from the subject. To use CC filters, you can use a CT meter to determine exactly which CC filter is appropriate (e.g. 80A, 80B, 80C, 82...). I bought a Gossen Sixticolor CT meter on eBay a few years back for about $45, and it works great. CC filters are also useful for photos where the setting or rising sun illuminates the subject. The red/gold illumination provided by low-elevation sunlight is 'real', but daylight film over-reacts in comparison with the human eye (same problem as your photo). Jim www.jcolwell.ca
