I'm about to begin the process of evaluating/purchasing an incident light
meter for field use. Needs to be pocket size and accordingly, be able
to take a bit of punishment. Any thoughts on: features? models? etc.?
Otis Wright
Tom Rittenhouse wrote:
> Using any meter (including the one in the camera) requires
> some knowledge and common sense. A spot meter makes sense
> with a view camera and the zone system.
>
> However, I think that an incident light meter is better for
> general photography. It gives you an 18% gray reading every
> time. If you want more detail in the shadows you open up one
> or two stops. For more highlight detail you close down a
> stop. You can not have both, no matter what type meter you
> use. If you want maximum detail over all the incident meter
> will nail the center and the film latitude will will give
> you the widest highlight to shadow range. Your paper grade
> will determine the final contrast range on the print for
> B&W, for color an incident meter will nail the best exposure
> every time.
>
> Using these techniques I have several times had lab people
> comment how consistent my exposure from frame to frame was.
>
> --Tom
>
> Shel Belinkoff wrote:
> >
> > Maybe ... but essentially I disagree with that statement. If the
> > scene is an average scene, then an incident meter can be useful.
> > However, add some deep shadows and some very bright highlights, and
> > you're not going to get a reading that will allow for the best
> > exposure, i.e., relying on what the incident meter tells you won't
> > give you the opportunity to place shadow or highlight values.
> > Further, there will be little opportunity to really learn about
> > light and exposure. With a 1-degree spot meter you you can meter
> > every part of the scene, and know exactly where the values will be
> > and what you have to do to properly expose the film and what
> > development will be needed.
> >
>
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