Hi Scott ...

I think you'll find that APX 100 in Rodinal @1:100 with very gentle
development and agitation (a couple of slow inversions per minute or two -
you'll have to work out your own process, but that's a good place to start)
will net some pretty nice results.

Looked like a few pics were IR.

Shel 


> [Original Message]
> From: Scott Loveless 
>
> Thanks for the info, Mark.  I'll keep your exposure recommendations in
> mind.  I'm going to agree with Shel for the time being, and hold off
> on buying Classic Pan in 120 roll until I see the results from the
> 35mm film.
>
> BTW - wonderful photos.  Did I see some infrared in there as well?
>
> On 5/31/05, Mark Cassino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Classic Pan 200 was my standard film for most of last summer - I shot
> > somewhere around 50 rolls, 120 format. A few shots taken with it:
> > 
> > http://www.markcassino.com/feature.htm
> > 
> > http://www.markcassino.com/galleries/asga/asga00.htm
> > 
> > http://www.markcassino.com/galleries/asga/asga03.htm
> > 
> > http://www.markcassino.com/galleries/asga/asga04.htm
> > 
> > http://www.markcassino.com/galleries/asga/asga13.htm
> > 
> > http://www.markcassino.com/galleries/asga/asga21.htm
> > 
> > I switched over to APX 100 when JandC ran out of CP200 late last year.
> > Ordered up another 20 rolls of the new CP200, but it seems to be subtly
> > different than the old (not surprising to see batch to batch variation
in a
> > film like this.)
> > 
> > With proper treatment you can produce a beautiful negative with this
film.
> > Personally, I exposed at ISO 100 (there was virtually no shadow detail
at
> > ISO 200), developed in HC 110 Dil H for 17 minutes, with agitation only
once
> > every 3 minutes.  It brought out beautiful shadow detail while
preventing
> > the highlights from blocking up. (Dil H is an 'unofficial dilution,
1:64 -
> > double the dilution of Dil B.)
> > 
> > I would rinse the film with water and then apply the acid stop bath - I
had
> > a few cases of pin holes when I just dropped the acid bath in. I also
used a
> > hardening fixer. The folks at JandC said you could go either way on
> > hardening it or not.
> > 
> > This is a very low contrast film - it's hard to factor in the agitation
and
> > dilution aspects of the developer, but I basically was over exposing it
by a
> > full stop and pushing the development to some degree at least.  I also
found
> > that it needed additional adjustment with filters - I got very poor
shadow
> > detail with a #25 red filter and 3 stop exposure adjustment. With the
green
> > filter I went to a 3 stop adjustment, more than the 2.5 stops I'd
usually
> > do.
> > 
> > With the new batch of CP200 I've cut development time by 3 minutes and
the
> > negs still look a little dense, so YMMV, as they say.
> > 
> > I only tried a couple of rolls of CP400 so never really got to know it.
It
> > seemed to be comparable in many ways to CP200 (except faster.)
> > 
> > The biggest PITA about CP200 in 120 format is that the film is not
rolled
> > onto the spools as well as modern films. This is the only 120 film I've
used
> > where I would find light leaks along the edges pretty consistently.  I
> > finally wound up bringing a black T-Shirt along with me in the field and
> > using it as a covering cloth when changing film - and then promptly
> > transferring the exposed rolls into a dark bag.  Even then, a slight
squeeze
> > to the center of the roll could result in light leaks, even in the
subdued
> > indoor light of my basement.
> > 
> > And if you do use 120 film - note that JandC often neglects to put glue
on
> > the end of the roll tag (most of the CP200 I bought this year has no
glue,
> > last years stock did.)  So you need to bring tape to tape the roll shut
(a
> > rubber band will compress the center of the roll, push the ends out, and
> > cause light leaks.)
> > 
> > At the end of the day - with the right development of APX 100 (I'm
using a
> > more dilute version of HC100) I find that the results are every bit as
good
> > as CP200, and the AGFA product is much easier to handle and is a
cheaper as
> > well... except for them going bankrupt I'd plan on using it
indefinitely.
> > 
> > - MCC
> > 
> > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> > Mark Cassino Photography
> > Kalamazoo, MI
> > www.markcassino.com
> > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>
>
>
> -- 
> Scott Loveless
> http://www.twosixteen.com
>
> --
> "You have to hold the button down" -Arnold Newman


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