>> believed simple bleaching and reversal by light would work with any
>> B&W film. Just by the nature of the beast. Of course, depending on
>> film base, gradation curve and other things, with some films it
>> wouldn't be worth the effort, and one would have to experiment.
WR> I expect you are pretty much correct in your assessment.
WR> Would you use the same developer for both developer baths?
Sorry - I really don't know. That's a bit over my knowledge of the subject.
At least I can look for some of the old recipes from the local
geniuses :)
And it could be an interesing thing to try during the winter!
Fortunately, I still have a darkroom even though doing mostly digital
(I sadly have to admit I neglected my darkroom lately...), and a JOBO
processor which does take some of the drudgery out of 20 minutes
developing... Although I am still have to experiment if the rotary
works the same with some of my favourite soups (which I haven't used
for some time). For example I am still unknowing how rotary works with
diluted Rodinal. I have heard claims from "normally" to "horrible",
each backed by some sensibly-sounding theories, and my early
experiments have so far proved nothing, because I ran out of Rodinal -
anyway I mostly use high-speed B&W where I prefer (IIRC on the advice
from PDML about five years back <g>) Emofin two-bath developer or
self mixed two-bath concotions.
WR> It would be a fun experiment, if I ever have a darkroom again, I'll tell the
WR> list and you should remind me of this conversation.
Definitely :)
WR> The Kodak kit I used was for T-Max 100 film, I think the Ilford roll that
WR> immolated was a Delta 100.
Strange! But good to know.
Good light!
fra
