Hi Nenad, E-man, Darryn, et al....

Glad to have been of some help.  I hope I've left you with fewer questions
than you started with.  For me, the easiest way to think about fill flash is
to consider the camera (body and lens) as totally separate and independent
from the flash unit.  I use the meter in the camera body exclusively to
measure ambient light for the background, and set aperture and shutter speed
on the camera so that the background will be correctly exposed.  I then set
my flash unit to one of the automatic modes, where I can use the sensor on
the flash foot to measure the intensity of the flash (which of course will
only illuminate the foreground subject).  My Sunpak flash units have
switches to change both the film speed and the aperture, in case I need that
kind of flexibility.  If I want 1:1 lighting, I set these switches to the
"true" values.  If I want less fill-flash, I set one or the other of these
switches accordingly.  (For instance, set the aperture to one stop wider
than the lens is really set to, or set the film speed to twice the actual
speed of the film I have loaded.  Either of these choices gives me one stop
less foreground illumination.)

Nenad has the right idea for using TTL flash metering, I think -- set the
camera to manual, then meter the background and adjust shutter and aperture
for proper exposure (with film speed set to the ~correct~ value), and THEN
manually change the film speed setting on the camera body to fool the flash
TTL circuitry into delivering a less powerful flash of light.  As Nenad has
suggested, it's possible to do the requisite tricks by setting the flash to
TTL metering.  It just makes the arithmetic a bit more fiddly, and you have
to think a little about what you're doing a bit more.  I usually find it
easier to set the flash unit to auto instead of TTL, then make the
adjustments to the switches on the back of the flash unit.  Many, but not
all, flash units offer you this kind of flexibility.

Emmanuel was last trying to figure out how to fool his AF-330FTZ into
delivering the correct fill ratio.  As I understand, this particular flash
has contrast control.  Isn't contrast control supposed to take care of
fill-flash ratio, or does it just allow you to balance lighting from a
master and slave flash?  (Which is another problem entirely....)  E-man,
you'll have to look at your manual on this one.  Otherwise, you might want
to try Nenad's technique.  By the way, if you have to change film speed
instead of aperture, a 2x change in film speed will be equivalent to a
one-stop change in aperture.  For example, suppose your camera is actually
loaded with 400-speed film.  If you can convince your flash unit that you're
really shooting 800-speed film instead of 400-speed film (e.g., by manually
changing the ASA setting on your camera body to an "incorrect" value of
800), the flash discharge will only be half as bright (i.e., one stop less
light).

Darryn sounds like he's got the right idea -- he simply worked through the
arithmetic in the reverse direction with respect to what I did.  (He
calculated for the foreground first, and then the background.  Works just as
well.)  At the distance to his foreground subject, a full-power discharge
from his flash would properly illuminate the foreground subject if he set
the lens to f/11.  At this aperture, he would need to set the shutter speed
at 1/15 sec to properly expose the background.  Everything worked fine.  If
Darryn wanted one stop less foreground, but a properly illuminated
background, he could have set his aperture to f/16 and his shutter speed to
1/8 -- a very tricky proposition if you're hand-holding the camera.  If
Darryn wanted to use a faster shutter speed, he could set his flash to a
lower-power manual discharge (don't know if this is possible on the
AF-200T).  Alternatively, he could set his flash to one of the auto modes
and use the method I describe.

Hope this helps.

Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY
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