You can also do colour with pretty much the same gear, but it has to be done at a higher temperature, to get the temperature right it is easy to dunk the bottles of chemicals into a sink of tap-hot water, after 10 mins the whole lot is at about the right temp, you only need to maintain the temp for a few minutes so you just need to add a dash more hot every 3 or 4 mins. I scan with an Epson 3490 Flatbed with film adaptor using Xsane software, see some results from this I have put a small Flickr set of home processed and scanned shots. > http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/sets/72157601900998358/
I agree with what is written below, but I would also add some film hanging pegs, they come as a pair, a normal one at the top and a weighted one at the bottom to hold the film straight. As for developing tanks, I prefer plastic Patterson with adjustable reels (they can fit roll film or 35mm), but that is probably just because it is what I learnt with. Ilford have some really good guides to get you started, see http://www.ilfordphoto.com/applications/page.asp?n=9 HTH Drew. Rebekah wrote: > This information is invaluable. I'm saving it to my computer for > future reference. Thank you so much. By the way, what scanner do you > use? > > rg2 > > > On 9/7/07, P. J. Alling <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> Equipment for developing B&W film in your kitchen or bathroom sink. >> (With commentary). >> >> 1. Someplace dark to move film around, (I use a closet after midnight, >> but I'm thinking of investing in a film changing bag). >> >> 2. Film developing tank, (I prefer stainless steel with PVC plastic >> tops, but almost any will do). >> >> 3. Reels to match the tank, and your film format. (I prefer Kinderman, >> no longer available new as far as I know, but their optional automatic >> film loaders make loading the reels a snap, not that it's difficult to >> do otherwise, but it does take practice.). If you're using stainless >> steel, as opposed to plastic watch out for slightly bent reels, they can >> make film loading impossible, If you're using plastic, keep the reels >> scrupulously clean and dry before each use for the same reason). >> >> 4. Minimum three bottles for working solutions. One for Fixer, one for >> Stop, one for Developer). You can skip the stop bath, and just rinse the >> film with water, but it's cheap and Ilford produces a citric acid >> version that's very environmentally benign. You can use a varsity of >> other chemicals as well to make your live easier. I usually treat my >> film with Kodak photo flo, (really just a very concentrated detergent, >> which improves chances that the film will dry spot free). Never made a >> stock or working solution. an old cap from a bottle that takes a screw >> on medicine dropper will work fine as a measure. About 1/2 a cap full is >> enough to treat 1-4 35mm or 1-2 120 rolls. There were at one time >> various fast film drying agents available, maybe there still are, DON"T >> USE THEM. There were also a number of Hypo Clearing agents to reduce >> washing time and water use, but I haven't seen any of them in years. >> >> 5. One or Two graduated cylinders for measurement, (you can get away >> with using a measuring cup depending on the chemicals you use, but you >> can usually find plastic photo graduates inexpensively, some shops are >> figuratively speaking giving them away). >> >> 5. An immersible thermometric, with temperatures in 1/2 degrees. showing >> the range from 60° F. ~15.5° C to 80° F ~26.5° C. >> >> 6.) Some kind of timer. (I've been using my watch, a dedicated timer is >> nice but not necessary, if you're capable of enough organization to have >> gotten this far a watch is all you need). >> >> That's all you really need. If you're using chemicals that need to be >> mixed to a stock solution, you'll need more bottles but the basics are >> very simple. >> >> >> >> Glen Tortorella wrote: >>> Whoa, $0.60 a roll--that beats the heck out of $16.95 (plus tax)! >>> Unfortunately, I have never developed a roll of film. What equipment >>> would I need? I do not have a "darkroom" per se. I have a >>> basement. Would I be able to develop at night in my basement? >>> >>> Regards, >>> Glen >>> >>> On Sep 7, 2007, at 10:48 AM, Adam Maas wrote: >>> >>> >>>> Glen, >>>> >>>> Mailers are a cheap option for getting E6 slide film processed. >>>> They are not economical for B&W. For cheap processing of Fuji >>>> Acros, do it yourself. I recommend Agfa or A&O Rodinal at 1:50 >>>> dilution for 12 minutes at 20C, 30 seconds initial agitation with 2 >>>> inversions per minute. Should run you about $0.60 or less per roll >>>> (including stop & fix) if you 1-shot the dev and reuse stop & fix. >>>> >>>> -Adam >>>> >>>> >>>> Glen Tortorella wrote: >>>> >>>>> Hi Adam, >>>>> >>>>> Recently, I have gotten some rolls of non-C41 B&W, some Fuji Acros >>>>> 100. I see you mention mailers here, indicating that they are >>>>> cheaper. What (or who) do you recommend for developing these >>>>> prints? I would like to be economical--but get good quality--and a >>>>> mailer would be fine. The mailers I had been looking at, though >>>>> (about a year or so ago), seemed rather expensive (and one had to >>>>> send several rolls in order to save what seemed like only a small >>>>> amount of money). Please let me know what you think. >>>>> >>>>> Regards, >>>>> Glen >>>>> >>>>> On Sep 7, 2007, at 7:58 AM, Adam Maas wrote: >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> John Sessoms wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> From: >>>>>>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I think Adam is correct. The popularity of the disposals is >>>>>>>> waning. Most cellphones can take a better picture than a plastic >>>>>>>> lens, fixed focus disposable. And consumers will eventually >>>>>>>> figure that out. But films that are applicable to fine art >>>>>>>> photography will continue to be available indefinitely, although >>>>>>>> at higher prices. >>>>>>>> Paul >>>>>>>> >>>>>>> May be. All I know is what I see, and I'm getting nine disposable >>>>>>> 35mm >>>>>>> cameras for every one 35mm roll of film. About half the 35mm rolls >>>>>>> I do >>>>>>> get are chromogenic B&W film and I get the occasional disposable >>>>>>> camera >>>>>>> loaded with that film. >>>>>>> >>>>>> Remember that you aren't going to be seeing almost all B&W film >>>>>> (Since >>>>>> that's mostly self-developed) and much E6 (since mailers are so much >>>>>> cheaper). C41 is for the most part a consumer product, and that's >>>>>> what >>>>>> you're seeing. When the disposables evaporate (and that's coming), >>>>>> consumer film is dead. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>> I'd also say about half the disposable cameras are "No-Name" >>>>>>> cameras in >>>>>>> cardboard sleeves. When you open them they frequently turn out >>>>>>> to be >>>>>>> recycled disposables, held closed with electricians tape and >>>>>>> loaded with >>>>>>> whatever film the manufacturer bought at bulk rates. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>> Not shocking, the no-name's are a fair bit cheaper. >>>>>> >>>>>> -Adam >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>>> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List >>>>>> PDML@pdml.net >>>>>> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net >>>>>> >>>> -- >>>> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List >>>> PDML@pdml.net >>>> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net >>>> >>> >>> >> >> -- >> Remember, it's pillage then burn. >> >> >> -- >> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List >> PDML@pdml.net >> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net >> -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
