frank theriault wrote: > Well, that clarifies things... > > ;-) Heck, I didn't even get into defraction... (Jo, don't worry about it, nothing you need to care about right now or probably ever).
frank theriault wrote: > On Wed, Jun 4, 2008 at 11:23 AM, P. J. Alling <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> First you need is a quick course on exposure values and how they effect >> the way your camera captures images. There used to be two parameters >> that could be readily controlled, aperture and shutter speed, which were >> adjusted to give the proper exposure. In addition higher shutter speed >> can "freeze" action, aperture controls the depth of apparent focus (the >> smaller the aperture, though confusingly enough the larger the aperture >> number, the more DOF is available), the combination of the two controls >> the amount of light hitting the sensor which will effect the quality of >> your results. In addition today you also have control over the >> effective ISO of your sensor, higher ISOs will allow faster shutter >> speeds to stop more action and more Depth of Field, but above a certain >> ISO image quality begins to be degraded by digital noise. Everything is >> a compromise, good choices of the three exposure parameters will give >> good results but remember you'll have to choose what's most important. >> Then there's Flash. Flash can supplement the available light or replace >> it, but the same parameters used in natural light still control the look >> and quality of the photograph. >> >> You need to realize that auto focus can be your enemy, I find that in >> automatic modes it always picks a part of a scene to focus on other than >> the one I wanted, it's especially problematic when you need it most, >> (usually in marginal lighting situations). Learn when you can trust >> your auto focus and when you need to take a hand. You have chosen a >> particularly difficult subject, living creatures with minds of their >> own, i.e. puppies, you know their habits and behaviors, your camera >> doesn't you have to pick the point of focus to anticipate what you >> expect them to be doing next, the camera can't, it generally doesn't >> know what you're interested in. You have to be aware of how much DOF >> the lens is delivering as well as where the actual point of focus is. >> Sometimes you can't get everything in acceptable focus that you want, so >> you have to choose, once again a compromise. >> >> The best way to improve is learn the basics, exposure, and the effects >> aperture and shutter speed will have on apparent sharpness and >> movement. Practice focusing manually anticipating the movement of your >> subject, not an easy thing, I know but there's no way around it. Shoot >> lots of pictures and show them to people who know a bit about >> photography tell them what you were trying to accomplish and what your >> camera settings were. PESOs here can be good for that. You'll get lots >> of stupid comments, (not the least of all from me), but you'll also get >> some good advice. The almost got what I wanted photos are often the >> best to show. >> >> > > Well, that clarifies things... > > ;-) > > Well, seriously, everything Peter said is true. You have to know > exposure, and light, and how those things interact. What shutter > speed and aperture (and now ISO - with film, ISO was the "film speed" > and couldn't be changed except by changing the roll of film) do to the > incoming light affect the image in major ways: What's light and dark > on the image of course, but also what's sharp or blurry. > > Then there's focus... > > But here's the thing. Reading about it is really difficult (at least > for me). It's so much easier to learn by doing. You have one huge > advantage with your digital camera, which is that you can shoot > (virtually) for free. So shoot away, have fun, don't worry about the > results. > > But if things don't turn out as you expect, find out why. Check in > your EXIF data to see what your shutter speed, aperture and ISO > ratings were, see if you can figure out how those things affected your > result. From there, you may want to control one or more of these > things to try to change future results. Was the dog blurry because he > moved? Maybe you need to use a faster shutter speed. Was only part > of the dog in focus, but not all of it? Maybe you need a narrower > aperture. Not enough room to change either of these values? Maybe > you need an higher ISO. > > As Peter said, ask questions. Post photos and ask. Most of us don't bite. > > One thing that Peter didn't get on to that I think affects things more > than the camera and its settings is ~composition~. You can have all > the settings on your camera perfect, the autofocus (or you manual > focus) can be spot-on, but if what's in the photo is banal and boring, > you might as well have bought a disposable camera. OTOH, there are > folks that get amazing images from the most rudimentary of plastic > cameras such as Holgas and the like, because of their composition. > > Look at good photographs (including many you'll see posted on this > list). Look at photography books. Go to websites such as this: > > http://www.magnumphotos.com/Archive/C.aspx?VP=XSpecific_MAG.AgencyHome_VPage&pid=2K7O3R1VX08V > > Look at the photos, see what works and maybe even why they work. I'm > not talking technically, but notice where things are in the frame and > see what you like and what you don't. Note how some photos are not > sharp, not well-exposed, but still work! > > Get inspired. > > Then shoot some more. > > Most of all have fun! You're not a pro. Most of us on this list > aren't pros. If you're not having fun, why else would you be taking > pictures? > > ;-) > > cheers, > frank > > > > > -- Vote for Cthulhu. Why settle for a lesser evil... -- Dr. Jerry Pournelle -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
