LeviL <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hi

Hi Levi,

> I am from
> Hungary, I study in the states now.  (at least for a few more
days, until
> the semester is over)
> 

Hungary! I've been in Vienna twice but never been able to travel
to Budapest or even across the border. Next time I'll plan a
longer journey... 

What do you study?


> Hmmm.  I never had any problems like that.  Well, I got my
self an
> eyepiece not long ago and with that I noticed the same thing I
guess.  I
> just avoid using it unless I know it will be too bright for me
to see the
> lightmeter.

I mean the eyepiece, not the eyecup...

> 
> So I already have the Clear-glass with center cross (SD-11)
screen.
> Someone here was explaining how to focus with it.  That I did
not really
> understand so I would appreciate some claification on that
too.  (remember
> I am just an enthusiastic beginner who immediately wants to do
all the fun
> stuff, astro, infrared :)) I know I am ahead of the game)  I
can tell you
> this.  

Step by step you'll do anything... There is no kind of
photography truly hard (well... there may be a couple of
exceptions...).

> When I was taking pictures of Saturn with a telescope I did
not see
> jack but the split prism in the wa of focusing.  Focusing is
NOT EASY.

(...)
> 
> So I have a hard time seeing how I should condentrate on the
center cross
> or hair or whatever...  I was glad to be alive and in focus
last time I
> did this.
> 

I really cannot help you much as I do not astrophotography (only
once a year or so...), but i can quote from
http://www.euronet.nl/~pimr/lxfsmain.html#main_table

" 1 Focusing with SD-11 and SD-21
I don't know anything about their application, so I'll just
quote from the Operating Manual. "When focusing with these
screens, while looking through the viewfinder, place the subject
you want to focus on in the central cross hairs, and focus the
lens. When the subject does not come off the central cross hairs
even if you have moved your eyes slightly to the right or left,
your subject is then in focus. The SD-11 is suited for
astrophotography and photomicrography, and if used for other
purposes, or depending on the telescope or microscope to be used
with, the corners of the frame may be darkened." "

> So after christmas I will be taking pictures of more
landscapes,
> architecture, etc. (Budapest)  More street photography.  In
fact birds and
> people unaware of my taking pictures is the reason why I want
to get a
> mirror lens.  (looking at 600mm Sigma)  The only other screen
I have is
> the default MX split prism with microprisim collar and it is
quite
> scratched up.  So I figured go LX.  Get the SE-60 totaly
unmarked matte
> one and the new SC-69 that is just like the default screen
just supposedly
> brighter.  My other lenses are 24mm f2.8, 50mm f1.4, 135mm
f2.5, 50-250mm
> f4.  So the SC-69 and the SE-60 will be used with these.  Not
with a
> telescope or a mirror lens.

If your purpose is to use your "normal" lenses (even the not so
normal 50-250/4) and not a telescope I should warn you: not use
one of the new (and expensive) screens for the LX (the -60/-69
ones). They won't fit your needs and you'll be disappointed.

Go for a screen designed for "general purpose" (the SC-21, SA-21
et simila).

Have a look at
http://www.euronet.nl/~pimr/fscrntab.html
for an idea of the compatibilty of the screens with the various
lenses.


> When I will get the mirror lens I figured I will need to get a
screen that
> was designed for such lenses.  SA-26, SC-26, SE-25.  As I said
earlier
> birds and people is what I will mainly be shooting with the
mirror lens.

(...)

> > The SE-25 is not a great screen, I don't like it even with
the
> > LX... The vignetting is visible, but significantly less than
> > with a normal lens mounted (to be precise: the SE-25
vignettes
> > with lenses shorter than 80mm even with the LX).
> 
> Well I figured I will only use it with a 600mm.  Does it
Vignette with
> that too?  (in MX of coirse, though I am interested in LX
results too)

Of course not! Maybe you'll notice a slight darkening in the
upper side of the finder, but that's all.


> > If you do not wear glasses, maybe the vignetting won't
bother
> > you too much.
> 
> I don't but that maybe is what I am worried about.  (did you
ever consider
> contact lenses?  Doing photography now I tahnk god several
times I do not
> have to wear glasses, though the day will come I am certain)

I would have a hard time trying to take a photo without glasses:
I press the camera with a certain effort on my right eye and my
nose to hold it steady (I usually shot handheld even with 1/8,
1/4s). If I didn't wear glasses I'd change the shape of my nose
and would need to clean up the eyepiece after every shot. This
way I only have to change the right lens of my glasses on a
regular basis (you cannot imagine how can a camera induce
scratches on glass...).


> > When I mounted the SE-60 I must admit I couldn't believe to
my
> > eyes. This is the less vignetting-prone screen of these
three
> > (I'm still talking of tele lenses, of course - I had no time
to
> > try a macro set-up).
> 
> Well I would use it with 50, 135, maybe the 24.

Avoid it. Buy it to shot with tele lenses, not others.

(...)
> 
> If I get the SE-60 should I get the SC-69 or the SC-21 to
accompany that
> (lenses are 24mm f2.8, 50mm f1.4, 135mm f2.5 50-250mm f4)
> 
> Or alternatively I should just stick to MX screens in which
case I will
> probably need to find a SC-1 and a SE.
 
I can suggest the SE-60 coupled with the SC-21 or SA-21. The
last two were my most used screens on my LXs before I could put
the hands on the SC-69 (do not use this one in the MX for normal
shooting!).
 
> Boy, I should just quit photography, or get a rangefinder so I
don't have
> to deal with this stuff.  :)))  (Just kidding I hope everyone
realizes)
> This is what a scratched up screen did to me, I would have
never
> considered changing screens if my MX screen would not be
scratched up :))

Screens get scratched. That's what they do best... :-)

Ciao,

Gianfranco
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