Full moon shots generally needs something like an ND25 or ND13 filter to
reduce glare, and increase contrast and detail. Otherwise stick to shots in
the terminator area (line of sunlight) where detail and contrast are higher.
Just remember to use an astro recommended shutter speed and not something
the camera may meter.
Kent Gittings

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bob Blakely
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2001 12:16 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Shooting The Moon (Was Re: My wife just doesn't understand)


I'd use 400 IS0 to keep the shutter above 1/100 even with the mirror up. As
to B&W or color, the moon doesn't have much color. I find the full moon
unsatisfying. The sun is straight on so no shadows are cast. I like a
gibbous moon. Affix as much weight on the camera as is practical to reduce
the amplitude of any vibrations, but don't do anything that over stresses
the lens mount. I'd set steel points on concrete. Use a head. The earth
turns faster than you think.

Regards,
Bob...
--------------------
"Let us contemplate our forefathers, and posterity,
and resolve to maintain the rights bequeathed to us
from the former, for the sake of the latter.
The necessity of the times, more than ever, calls
for our utmost circumspection, deliberation, fortitude,
and perseverance. Let us remember that 'if we
suffer tamely a lawless attack upon our liberty,
we encourage it, and involve others in our doom.'
It is a very serious consideration that millions yet
unborn may be the miserable sharers of the event."
- Samuel Adams, 1771

----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Franklin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2001 7:56 PM
Subject: Shooting The Moon (Was Re: My wife just doesn't understand)


> Hi John,
>
> On Fri, 21 Dec 2001 19:05:19 -0600, John Mustarde wrote:
>
> > Your Sigma AF 400/5.6 APO Macro will be a pleasant surprise in terms
> > of sharpness and contrast. I'm quite sure it will blow the K-400/5.6
> > and certainly the Tokina out of the water, especially wide open.
>
> Boy, John, I hope you're right.  I'd love to find out that my technique
> isn't as bad as I thought but my 400 lenses aren't as good as I
> thought. :-)  I think I'm going to try a couple of moon shots tomorrow
> night with the Sigma.  If I think about it, I'll do some "side by side"
> comparison shots with the K 400.  Since I don't have a tripod collar
> for the Tokina, I can't do side by sides for it.
>
> Speaking of taking moon photos, I'd appreciate comments on my plan of
> attack.
>
> I'll be using a heavy duty surveyor's tripod (aluminum, unfortunately).
>  I may use a Bogen/Manfrotto 3262 ball head (the only head I have) or I
> may put the camera directly on the tripod and adjust the legs instead
> of using a head.  I'll set the tripod up on earth rather than concrete.
>
> I'll ballast the tripod itself with a 40 pound (5 gallon) bucket of
> water hanging from the center "yoke" of the tripod.  I'm not sure
> whether it's better to keep the ballast closer to the ground or the
> "yoke".  I'll ballast the lens and camera with one or two 2# ankle
> weights.  Either both over the tripod mount or one on the camera itself
> and one near the front of the lens.
>
> I'll use the Sigma with two Pentax 2X-S T/Cs.  It looks like the lens
> would work with a 2X-L T/C, but I don't have one. :-(  The body will be
> my LX, since I have the "magnifinder" (looking down into the top of the
> camera works better when it's elevated 30 or more degrees).
>
> I'll be using the "Moony 11" rule (like Sunny 16).  That means a
> shutter speed 4/ASA since my effective aperture will be f/22. Or should
> that be 2/ASA?  I'll have to do the math again. :-)
>
> I haven't decided on film yet.  I've got the following in house:
> Portra 160NC, Royal Gold 100 and 400, T400CN, TriX, and Max 400.  I'm
> thinking probably Portra or RG 100, or maybe TriX.
-
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