Nice stereo pairs can be made with a little gadget I picked up long ago. With it you shoot one image (full frame film or sensor) then this pantograph or parallelograph moves the camera up and over to a position an eye's distance away, on the same plane. _______ _______ \______\ to /_____/ (only it folds all the way down to flat in both directions) It has a female socket on the bottom plate, and a male screw post on the top, adjustable so you can snug the camera back up against the short lip at the rear of the top plate assuring the same 90° to subject at both ends.
Print both images, screw your eyes apart so they blend the two into a 3D image. It takes practice. Many hours on a photo interpretation table with similar aerial pairs taught me to do away with the special stereo lenses used on the light table, unless I needed more power to look more closely at something. You can also view the pair on a monitor by viewing two up in Lightroom or Aperture. Adjust the size of the viewing window to make it easier to blend the two images. Too far apart and it can't be done. Joseph McAllister pentax...@mac.com THE SENILITY PRAYER : Grant me the senility to forget the people I never liked anyway, The good fortune to run into the ones I do, and The eyesight to tell the difference. On Jun 9, 2011, at 08:36 , John Francis wrote: > On Thu, Jun 09, 2011 at 04:02:44PM +1000, Anthony Farr wrote: >>> >>> I know it won't work with digital because of the sensor dimension ... >>> bummer. >>> >> >> Are you sure of that? Doesn't it just split the frame down the middle >> into a left and right image? Does the format size or the field of >> view make any difference? > > Yes, it makes a difference, but not one impossible to overcome. > > The adapter is designed to produce left and right images covering the > same field of view on one frame of film. Just using that on a smaller > sensor will lose the left third of the field of view from one half, > and the right third of the field of view from the other. This means > the only part of the field of view in both parts is the central third. > > The way to compensate for that is simple; use a lens which covers the > same field of view on the smaller sensor as the lens for which the > adapter was designed when it is used on a full-frame sensor. > > I believe the adapter was designed for use with a 50mm or 55mm lens. > That means you should use something like a 35mm lens on APS-C, > I'd expect anything in the 31mm - 40mm range would work just fine. > > > > -- > PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > PDML@pdml.net > http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow > the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
