From: Kenton Brede

I'm making a foray into film and decided I should get a light meter.
I bought a used Sekonic L-508 which has both incident and spot
metering.  Messing around with the K-5 and Sekonic, I found the
readings didn't really match up.  So I took a picture of the blue sky,
the histogram was spiked in the center.  I then spot metered the sky.
I used the compensation function to dial in 3AV to bring the meter in
line with the K-5's shutter, ISO and aperture.  I used a gray card in
the shade to meter off of with the K-5, and then matched those
settings on the Sekonic by dialing in a -1AV for the incident reading.

Does this sound like a decent calibration method?

I went around metering things and taking shots with the K-5.  I found
that if I spot metered off a shaded green bush, I needed to speed up
the shutter 2 stops to bring the histogram near center.  When metering
off a gray cloud, with silver lining, I sped up the shutter a couple
stops to bring the histogram to center.  The incident meter seemed to
get the K-5 in the ballpark when metering in front of a tan shed,
while the meter was facing the direction the sun.  In shade, facing
away from the sun, I generally had to slow the shutter down a couple
stops.

Does this sound like the way an accurate light meter works?  I've
never used one.

Any thoughts appreciated.  I realize all this hinges on the K-5 being
accurate, and assuming the film cameras will work with the same meter
readout as the K-5.  I probably should have just purchased a new
model, but good ones are expensive!
Thanks,

I'm a little confused by what you wrote above, but I have a Sekonic L-408 & it has an exposure compensation function that lets you permanently (until you choose to change it) set a compensation.

I had to dial in a little bit of compensation to get it to match my K10D, and then change to a different compensation when I got the K20D.



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