Mark's macro work has been and is good inspiration. 
But you make it sound as if I bought equipment for the sake of besting him... 
:-)
I think it was around 2006 I started to play with the 645 optics for macro. 
IIRC, Mike Wilson has a picture of me applying gaffertape to couple two lenses 
together... But the 645 lenses were otherwise just collecting dust at the time. 
Actually, the only person to have run film through my 645n in ten years is some 
guy from Israel, also in 2006. :-)
But I digress... My point is that experiments are required to find optics that 
fit well together for stacking. One can be very positively surprised with 
results from what one already has lying around!

Boris Liberman <bori...@gmail.com> wrote:

>Technique aside, this is marvelous photograph, Jostein. Although you 
>seem to have affinity to (for?) this kind of macro photography at least
>
>since 2006 when as I remember you were gearing up towards competing ;-)
>
>with Mark Cassino on his snowflake photography.
>
>On 7/15/2012 7:03 PM, Jostein Øksne wrote:
>> There was some exchange on the list about macro photography and
>> extension a few days ago. Personally I prefer to use stacked lenses
>for
>> magnification beyond 1X. Here's one I took today, using the 645D, and
>a
>> 150mm lens stacked with a reversed 75mm. The magnification of this
>combo
>> is 2X. That's about as much as I can cope with when working handheld.
>>
>> The image is severely cropped, but the motif gives you an idea of the
>> possibilities in the field with this kind of setup.
>>
>> Image only: http://turl.no/kz3
>> In blog: http://alunfoto.blogspot.no/2012/07/feeding-kiss.html
>>
>> One reason why I prefer stacking over other solutions is that
>exposure
>> automation keeps working. So you don't have to stop down the lens
>manually.
>>
>> Another reason is that P-TTL keeps working. Well, sort of; you have
>to
>> diffuse the flash to avoid overexposure because of the short working
>> distance, but that's okay because you really don't want specular
>> highlights and sharp shadows anyway.
>>
>> And if you're patient, you might actually make AF working. But you
>have
>> to keep the camera very steady. :-)
>>
>> The knack is to find to lenses that go well together. According to
>John
>> Shaw (Book; "closeups in nature"), lenses in the normal range are
>best
>> for reversing, and moderate tele lenses best for attaching to the
>camera.
>>
>> Personally I recommend using a tele lens with IF because it makes
>> working distance more predictable.
>>
>> Jostein
>>
>
>
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