You can't focus on the bird feeder perch if you want a critically sharp photo. 
You have to focus on the bird's eye and open the shutter within milliseconds. 
Just like manual where you focus with one hand while simultaneously tripping 
the shutter with the other.

Paul via phone

> On Nov 10, 2013, at 5:18 PM, Stan Halpin <s...@stans-photography.info> wrote:
> 
> Set to AF-C. Point, achieve focus. Release AF button while recomposing, 
> shoot. I think it is just as fast as using AF-S and the shutter button 
> half-push approach.
> 
> Alternate scenario: camera on a tripod; focus on bird-feeder perch; recompose 
> and lock down tripod head. Fire away with no worry that button pushing will 
> change your AF point, and no need to switch to MF.
> 
> I've gotten comfortable with these approaches. YMMV.
> 
> stan
> 
>> On Nov 10, 2013, at 3:05 PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:
>> 
>> I use battery grips. Can usually get 800 exposures. With back button 
>> autofocus I couldn't have shot that chickadee this morning.
>> 
>> Paul via phone
>> 
>>> On Nov 10, 2013, at 2:54 PM, Rob Studdert <distudio.p...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I guess it really depends on how busy you are when the battery dies :)
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On 11 November 2013 06:42, Paul Stenquist <pnstenqu...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>>> I would count that as a minor consideration vs achieving focus at the last 
>>>> possible moment.
>>>> 
>>>> Paul via phone
>>>> 
>>>>> On Nov 10, 2013, at 2:39 PM, Rob Studdert <distudio.p...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> An unexpected benefit of using the back button AF instead of AF tied
>>>>> to the shutter is that my battery life seems to almost double on the
>>>>> K5, I can shoot a 32GB card RAW +JPG before I have to swap out
>>>>> batteries.
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On 8 November 2013 22:33, Paul Stenquist <pnstenqu...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>>>>> Why not go back to shutter release autofocus? it works for most shooters 
>>>>>> and helps ensure focus won't change before shutter release.
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Paul via phone
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Nov 7, 2013, at 11:12 PM, Stan Halpin <s...@stans-photography.info> 
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Besides the continuous shot sound files I posted earlier, I played 
>>>>>>> around with a few other K-3 features.
>>>>>>> I did another two ISO series, one with, one without high ISO NR turned 
>>>>>>> on. All full stops from ISO100 to 51200. (K-3 only, no more comparisons 
>>>>>>> to the K-5ii). I'll post those if anyone wants to see the results. In 
>>>>>>> brief, there is noise at higher ISO, in-camera NR may make a difference 
>>>>>>> but post-processing is still needed. But even I can get a decent 
>>>>>>> ISO51200 image with a bit of LR4.2 effort.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> I tried out the in-camera HDR. Like with the K-5, it offers the option 
>>>>>>> of HDR Auto, HDR1, HDR2, and HDR3. I am clueless as to what those 
>>>>>>> designations are supposed to mean, and neither manual has any hints. 
>>>>>>> Unlike the K-5, the K-3 in-camera HDR works on RAW files.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 1. In-camera HDR takes about 5-7 seconds of data processing time after 
>>>>>>> the three images have been shot.
>>>>>>> 2. The resulting file is in the 90-95mb size range. I don't now why. 
>>>>>>> That is like they just added the three original files together; where 
>>>>>>> is the processing?
>>>>>>> 3. A simple 3-shot bracket, exported to Photomatix, can be worked into 
>>>>>>> a good HDR, lots of variation possible, and it takes little time while 
>>>>>>> shooting.
>>>>>>> 4. The in-camera HDR may be slow and lacking in processing options, but 
>>>>>>> it doesn't require heroic post-processing.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> One of my experiments was to focus-stack a series of HDR shots of a 
>>>>>>> still-life similar to what I posted yesterday. I am loving the tonality 
>>>>>>> and detail I am getting!
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> This playing-around is not yet producing any images that are likely to 
>>>>>>> pay for the camera. But they are helping me get comfortable with the 
>>>>>>> use of the camera.
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> So far I am quite disappointed by one thing. I had thought that I would 
>>>>>>> stop with one K-3 and keep one of my perfectly good almost new K-5ii's 
>>>>>>> as my second body & backup. But a couple of months ago I switched to a 
>>>>>>> "back-button focus" mode of shooting, have come to quite prefer that 
>>>>>>> approach and am comfortable using it. The K-3 moves the relevant AF 
>>>>>>> button. Moves it to a better place IMHO, but still, it is moved. In its 
>>>>>>> old location is the Green Button. Eventually I will learn to quickly 
>>>>>>> almost-automatically find the new AF button and not have my shooting 
>>>>>>> concentration spoiled by inadvertent pushes of the Green Button and the 
>>>>>>> consequent screwing up of my carefully chosen balance between ISO, 
>>>>>>> Aperture, and Speed. And I can re-program the Green Button to not do 
>>>>>>> anything (which is a bit of a waste). But I seriously doubt that I can 
>>>>>>> quickly switch back and forth between the two bodies. So I need to 
>>>>>>> either give up my two-body style of shooting or I need a second K-3. 
>>>>>>> But I really r
 ea
>> lly need an updated computer to precess the K-3 files. . .
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> stan
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> 
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>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> --
>>>>> Rob Studdert (Digital  Image Studio)
>>>>> Tel: +61-418-166-870 UTC +10 Hours
>>>>> Gmail, eBay, Skype, Twitter, Facebook, Picasa: distudio
>>>>> 
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