[EMAIL PROTECTED] commented:
>> How the H-E-double hockey sticks do you meter that ? My
>> Sekonic L308-B can only go to 8000. Every other hand meter
>> I've seen only goes so high so how do you compensate for ISO
>> above 8000 ? (i.e. 12,500 and higher)
>
> I shot a couple of rolls of Delta 3200 at 12,800 about a year
> ago. I just used the camera's inbuilt light meter. If I
> remember right, the Z-1p only goes up to 6400 so I just set it
> there and set the exposure compensation to -1 stop. I can't
> do that on my K2 because the ISO and exposure compensation
> dials are mechanically linked, so a small mental adjustment is
> required.
The exposure compensation on all my cameras turns the same
mechanical piece as the film speed selector, so what you
described on the K2 is what I've done. Shooting at 12500 In the
KX (and when I get around to doing this on the K2) it's simply a
matter of setting the film speed to 6400, and making the shutter
speed needle point to one speed faster than the speed the meter
needle is pointing at. On the Super Program it's a little more
difficult -- set the camera to 3200 ASA and shoot in manual mode
with "-2" being your target instead of "+/-0", and what makes it
harder is seeing that LCD display in light so dim that you need
such fast film in the first place. :-/ (Yeah, the Super
Program has a "drain battery" button ... I mean LCD illumination
button ... but it's not where one of my fingers naturally lands
when I'm holding the camera, so it requires shifting my hands
around.) I suppose doing this in the Super Program wouldn't be
so bad if you were using high speed film to get high shutter
speeds with a really long, slow lens, rather than shooting
"available gloom". (I don't usually go faster than 3200 ASA in
daylight, and that's for the 400/6.3 handheld with a moving
target under overcast skies.)
I don't remember how fast my handheld meter went (stolen about
fifteen months ago, or I'd still be using it), but if I'm
reading a separate meter in the first place, mentally shifting
by one or two stops just isn't going to slow me down any -- just
think "off by one", as I described for the KX.
I haven't shot much Really Fast film in the Spotmatic. I'm sure
that if I used the Spotmatic more often, I'd trust myself to
know when the needle was pointing one stop under or two stops
under, but for now what I do is center the needle and then
adjust the shutter speed or aperture one stop. A little slower
than just lining up a needle one stop off in one step, but
workable.
-- Glenn
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