Italy: The Barbarians At The Gates

Conn Hallinan
Foreign Policy In Focus

July 13. 2011

Paestum, Italy

Walls tell you a lot about a country's history. Since
their purpose is to keep people out who want to get in,
they generally mean trouble. In the case of this stunning
ruin of a city southeast of Naples, back in the 6th
century BC the Greeks were trying to keep out the
Etruscans who didn't cotton to a colony plunked down in
their midst.

Italy has lots of walls, particularly in the north and
center where towns and cities cluster on the high ground.
The Italians did not build on mountain tops for the view.
What is picturesque now was safe haven from the barbarians
back then.

Except, the barbarians are back, only this time they are
not tribes with scary names like Goths, Huns and Lombards.
Today the brutes have bland sounding labels like the
International Monetary Fund IMF), the European Union (EU)
and Moody's. And some of the worst are homegrown: Silvio
Berlusconi and Giullo Tremonti.

Italy is in deep trouble, though it is hardly alone. While
the headlines go to Greece, Portugal and Spain, Italy has
the second highest rate of debt in Europe and one of the
lowest growth rates. On July 8, Italian bond yields jumped
to a nine-year high, and the country's stock market
tanked. Given that Italy has the third largest economy in
the Eurozone, if it is in trouble, so is the Euro. And,
unlike Portugal, Greece or Ireland, Italy is far too big
for a bail out (not that the thuggish austerity programs
being forced on all three of those countries have anything
in common with "bail outs." They are simply taxpayers
covering ruinous speculation binges by French, German and
Dutch banks).

There are signs that the Italian economy is running off
the rails, but the signs are subtle. Lots of locked houses
and long grass, for instance.

 The locked houses are in Pompeii, where the government no
 longer has the money to shore up the walls of the 2,000
 year-old city. From the Pompeii of glorious mosaics and
 stunning frescos it has become a ghost town that one
 views from roads and sidewalks.

 The immense Doric temples at Paestum are wonderfully
 preserved, but grass has reclaimed much of the rest of
 the site. It is charming to wander through the ruins,
 finding lovely mosaic floors, peristyle gardens or
 swimming pools, but the Italian authorities did not let
 the grass grow in order to stimulate the curiosity of
 tourists; they don't have the money to cut it.

There is a sense in this country that people are holding
their breath. The current center-right government is
pushing through a $68 billion austerity package that will
increase the retirement age, cut medical benefits, and lay
off state workers, but many of the cuts will not take
effect until 2013 and 2014. Hoping to avoid the wrath of
voters, the current finance minister, Giullo Tremonti, has
back loaded the cuts so they won't take effect until after
next spring's elections.

As in ancient Rome, there are graffiti everywhere. There
are hammers and sickles painted on the walls in Naples, as
well as scrawls threatening "death to the Communists." The
left took power here in the last elections and is
currently locked in a battle with the local Mafia over
corruption. A cursory glance at this teeming, energetic,
and most Italian of cities suggests the left is holding
its own: the Mafia's tactic of flooding the place with
garbage is not working. The streets are chaotic, loud, and
anarchic, but clean.

Sometimes it is hard to decide if Italians are holding
their breath or their noses. For instance, Tremonti's
political advisor, Marco Milanese, a member of parliament,
was arrested last week as part of a corruption
investigation, forcing Tremonti to give up using
Milanese's luxury flat in Rome. In the meantime, Prime
Minister Silvio Berlusconi secretly tried to slip a clause
into the budget bill that would delay paying a huge $1.5
billion fine against his flagship media company,
Fininvest.

Compared to social unrest in Greece, Spain, Britain and
Portugal, Italy has been relatively tranquil. While the
Greeks are in open rebellion against the austerity
packages of the IMF and the EU, Italian demonstrations
have been big but generally quiet. Tremonti told the
Financial Times that Italians are different than Greeks
and would accept austerity, because "The Italian people
understand," he said, "their demand is to be serious and
rigorous. People are strongly in favor of this
discipline."

Tremonti is whistling past the graveyard, his words an
eerie echo of Greek Prime Minister George Papandrerou's
comment that Greeks were "unified" behind the government
program." Outside the parliament Athens seeths with rage,
and hundreds of thousands of Greeks battle tear gas and
police batons to demonstrate quite the opposite. A recent
poll found that 80 percent of the Greeks oppose the
austerity plan.

There is nothing to indicate that Italians won't follow
the Greeks into the streets once the cuts hit home here. A
stencil on a wall in Citta de Castello shows two stick
figures, one firing a gun at the head of the other.
Underneath the picture is one word: "capitalism."

Europe (and much of the world) is currently in the throes
of a counterrevolution led by a combination of local
capitalists and international finance. Using the crisis
sparked by bank speculation, its goals are to weaken trade
unions, roll back social services and pensions, and
privatize as much as possible. Wages have fallen across
the continent, and temporary jobs with sketchy or
non-existent benefits have grown at the expense of regular
employment.

The "crisis" is a one-way street. As a Financial Times
analysis pointed out last month, "Millionaires across the
world are richer they were before the financial crisis,
the latest sign that the wealthy have weathered the
downturn far better than other groups."

The number of millionaires in North America went from 2.7
to 3.4 million from 2008 to 2010 and, in Europe, from 2.6
to 3.1 million during the same time period. Italy was the
only EU country that saw a slight drop in the number of
millionaires: 179 to 170. The countries with the largest
number of millionaires are, in decreasing order, the U.S.,
Japan, Germany, China and Britain.

Capital is playing hardball in this counterrevolution.

On one level, governments like in Greece have unleashed
their police in an effort to drive the hundreds of
thousands of young people, teachers, government workers
and trade unionists off the streets.

On another level, rating agencies like Moody's, Standard &
Poor's, and Fitch deliberately downgrade bonds in order to
protect private investors. When investors are asked to
absorb some of the losses that their speculation
generated, the rating agencies step in and make an offer
no country can refuse: drop efforts to make private
speculators pay or we tank your bonds and drive up the
cost of borrowing money.  "The credit rating agencies are
playing politics not economics. The timing of the
downgrades are not a coincidence," one "senior EU
official" told the Financial Times.

The "bailout" will not stop Greece from defaulting on its
debt (with Ireland, Portugal and Spain likely to follow).
Nor is there any way for a country like Greece to climb
back out of the debt pit as long as its currency policies
are dictated by Germany and France.

Italy has some experience with this business of crisis and
currency, although its current leaders choose to ignore
it. Back in the early 19th century, Naples was the largest
city in Italy, and the south had a diverse and dynamic
economy. It was the first region in Italy to build
railroads, but the madness of the Catholic Church derailed
the effort by blocking passage through the Papal States.
Pope Gregory XVI called rails "roads to hell."

 According to Sir Martin Jacomb, former Chancellor of the
 University of Buckingham, the sabotage of railway
 development marks the beginning of the south's decline.
 But it wasn't until the lira was made the national
 currency in 1861 that " it [the south] lost its ability
 to correct its uncompetitive position. Able and
 enterprising people moved to the north or emigrated, and
 the situation became permanent, as it remains today. The
 tragedy endures."

Southern Italy has been locked into poverty for close to
200 years, a fate that is almost certain to befall other
periphery members of the EU. Generations of poverty and
emigration will be the price tag for protecting the
investments of the very people who brought the current
economic crisis on. The Citta di Castello stencil was, if
anything, an understatement.

So far Italy is quiet, but everyone is aware that the coup
of capital is being contested in the streets of Greece,
Spain, Portugal and Britain, as it will eventually be in
Rome, Naples, and Milan.

In the aftermath of the Peterloo massacre in 1819, where
the British government sent cavalry to scatter a massive
demonstration demanding political reform, an enraged Percy
Bysshe Shelly penned "The Mask of Anarchy," which ended in
words that today's powerful would do well to consider:

"Rise like Lions after slumber
In unvanquishable number--
Shake your chains to earth like dew
Which in sleep had fallen on you--
Ye are many -- they are few."
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