When I was still in grad school, I used to work alongside Francis Moore
Lappe, who was working on her classic book, Diet for a Small Planet.  The
beef water story was central.


On Sat, Mar 8, 2014 at 6:22 AM, Louis Proyect <[email protected]> wrote:

> NY Times Op-Ed, Mar. 8 2014
> Meat Makes the Planet Thirsty
> By JAMES MCWILLIAMS
>
> AUSTIN, Tex. -- CALIFORNIA is experiencing one of its worst droughts on
> record. Just two and a half years ago, Folsom Lake, a major reservoir
> outside Sacramento, was at 83 percent capacity. Today it's down to 36
> percent. In January, there was no measurable rain in downtown Los
> Angeles. Gov. Jerry Brown has declared a state of emergency. President
> Obama has pledged $183 million in emergency funding. The situation,
> despite last week's deluge in Southern California, is dire.
>
> With California producing nearly half of the fruit and vegetables grown
> in the United States, attention has naturally focused on the water
> required to grow popular foods such as walnuts, broccoli, lettuce,
> tomatoes, strawberries, almonds and grapes. These crops are the ones
> that a recent report in the magazine Mother Jones highlighted as being
> unexpectedly water intensive. Who knew, for example, that it took 5.4
> gallons to produce a head of broccoli, or 3.3 gallons to grow a single
> tomato? This information about the water footprint of food products --
> that is, the amount of water required to produce them -- is important to
> understand, especially for a state that dedicates about 80 percent of
> its water to agriculture.
>
> But for those truly interested in lowering their water footprint, those
> numbers pale next to the water required to fatten livestock. A 2012
> study in the journal Ecosystems by Mesfin M. Mekonnen and Arjen Y.
> Hoekstra, both at the University of Twente in the Netherlands, tells an
> important story. Beef turns out to have an overall water footprint of
> roughly four million gallons per ton produced. By contrast, the water
> footprint for "sugar crops" like sugar beets is about 52,000 gallons per
> ton; for vegetables it's 85,000 gallons per ton; and for starchy roots
> it's about 102,200 gallons per ton.
>
> Factor in the kind of water required to produce these foods, and the
> water situation looks even worse for the future of animal agriculture in
> drought-stricken regions that use what's known as "blue water," or water
> stored in lakes, rivers and aquifers, which California and much of the
> West depend on.
>
> Vegetables use about 11,300 gallons per ton of blue water; starchy
> roots, about 4,200 gallons per ton; and fruit, about 38,800 gallons per
> ton. By comparison, pork consumes 121,000 gallons of blue water per ton
> of meat produced; beef, about 145,000 gallons per ton; and butter, some
> 122,800 gallons per ton. There's a reason other than the drought that
> Folsom Lake has dropped as precipitously as it has. Don't look at kale
> as the culprit. (Although some nuts, namely almonds, consume
> considerable blue water, even more than beef.) That said, a single plant
> is leading California's water consumption.
>
> Unfortunately, it's a plant that's not generally cultivated for humans:
> alfalfa. Grown on over a million acres in California, alfalfa sucks up
> more water than any other crop in the state. And it has one primary
> destination: cattle. Increasingly popular grass-fed beef operations
> typically rely on alfalfa as a supplement to pasture grass. Alfalfa hay
> is also an integral feed source for factory-farmed cows, especially
> those involved in dairy production.
>
> If Californians were eating all the beef they produced, one might write
> off alfalfa's water footprint as the cost of nurturing local food
> systems. But that's not what's happening. Californians are sending their
> alfalfa, and thus their water, to Asia. The reason is simple. It's more
> profitable to ship alfalfa hay from California to China than from the
> Imperial Valley to the Central Valley. Alfalfa growers are now exporting
> some 100 billion gallons of water a year from this drought-ridden region
> to the other side of the world in the form of alfalfa. All as more
> Asians are embracing the American-style, meat-hungry diet.
>
> Further intensifying this ecological injustice are incidents such as the
> Rancho Feeding Corporation's recent recall of 8.7 million pounds of beef
> because the meat lacked a full federal inspection. That equals 631.6
> million gallons of water wasted by an industry with a far more complex
> and resource-intensive supply chain than the systems that move
> strawberries from farm to fork.
>
> This comparison isn't to suggest that produce isn't occasionally
> recalled, but the Rancho incident reminds us that plants aren't
> slaughtered, a process that demands 132 gallons of water per animal
> carcass, contributing even more to livestock's expanding water footprint.
>
> It's understandable for concerned consumers to feel helpless in the face
> of these complex industrial and global realities. But in the case of
> agriculture and drought, there's a clear and accessible action most
> citizens can take: reducing or, ideally, eliminating the consumption of
> animal products. Changing one's diet to replace 50 percent of animal
> products with edible plants like legumes, nuts and tubers results in a
> 30 percent reduction in an individual's food-related water footprint.
> Going vegetarian, a better option in many respects, reduces that water
> footprint by almost 60 percent.
>
> It's seductive to think that we can continue along our carnivorous
> route, even in this era of climate instability. The environmental impact
> of cattle in California, however, reminds us how mistaken this idea is
> coming to seem.
>
> James McWilliams is a professor of history at Texas State University and
> the author, most recently, of "The Politics of the Pasture: How Two
> Cattle Inspired a National Debate About Eating Animals ."
>
> ---
>
> NY Times, Mar. 8 2014
> In Parched California, Town Taps Run Nearly Dry
> By ADAM NAGOURNEY
>
> LAKE OF THE WOODS, Calif. -- People in this mountain town straddling the
> San Andreas Fault are used to scrapping for water. The lake for which it
> is named went dry 40 years ago. But now, this tiny community is dealing
> with its most unsettling threat yet: It could run out of water by summer.
>
> As of last week, just two of the five wells drilled into the dry lake
> bed that serve its 300 homes were producing water. The mountains of the
> nearby Los Padres National Forest got their first dusting of snow -- and
> it was a light one -- last week; it is the winter snow that feeds the
> wells come spring. People are watering trees with discarded dishwater,
> running the washing machine once a week, and letting their carefully
> tended beds of flowers and trees wither into patches of dusty dirt.
>
> There are scenes all across California that illustrate the power of the
> drought. A haze of smog, which normally would be washed away by winter
> rains, hung over Los Angeles this week. Beekeepers near Sacramento said
> the lack of wildflowers has deprived bees of a source of food,
> contributing to a worrisome die-off. Across the rich farmland of the San
> Joaquin Valley, fields are going unplanted.
>
> But for 17 small rural communities in California, the absence of rain is
> posing a fundamental threat to the most basic of services: drinking
> water. And Lake of the Woods, a middle-class enclave 80 miles from
> downtown Los Angeles, a mix of commuters, retirees and weekend
> residents, is one of the most seriously threatened. Signs along its
> dusty roadways offer stark red-on-white warnings of a "Water Emergency"
> and plead for conservation.
>
> "I didn't think it would come to this," said Diane Gustafson, the
> manager of the Lake of the Woods Mutual Water Company, as she greeted a
> team of county and state officials reviewing the community's request for
> emergency funds to drill more holes. "Our wells are so deep. I have
> lived here for 40 years, and this is the first time we've had a problem
> like this."
>
> So far, nothing has seemed to have helped: not the yearlong ban on
> watering lawns and washing cars, not the conscientious homeowners who
> clean their dishes in the sink and reuse the gray water on trees, not
> even the three inches of rain that soaked the area last weekend. Three
> attempts to drill new wells, going down 500 feet, have failed.
>
> For a while, Lake of the Woods bought water from Frazier Park, five
> miles up the road, but that community halted sales as its water table
> dropped through the winter. Now Lake of the Woods is trying to line up
> alternatives, and fast: State officials predict the existing water
> supply will last no more than three months.
>
> The town, which covers an unincorporated square mile of Kern County and
> has a population of about 900, says it is prepared to truck in water
> should the wells run dry, an expensive remedy that it employed briefly
> during a dry spell last year and that now looms as a potential fact of
> life here. Bob Stowell, a general contractor who is the unpaid chairman
> of the board of the water company, promises that no faucets in Lake of
> the Woods will go dry.
>
> But that assurance is being met with skepticism from residents who, with
> every dry passing day, have grown uneasy at the prospect of running out
> of water for drinking or, no less alarming, to fight what many see as
> the inevitable forest fires on the way.
>
> "I am very worried," said Craig Raiche, 43, who works at the local
> hardware store, as he tended the dry brown dirt of his front yard here.
> "We understand what we are in the middle of. People have been cutting
> back considerably. I don't see neighbors gardening anymore. I had a
> neighbor with flowers in front of her home -- she let them all go."
>
> Kathy Hamm, 50, who works at the general store on the old lake, said
> that last year was bad "but not like this."
>
> "It's been getting worse and worse," she said. "People aren't watering
> their lawns. Laundry one day a week. Doing dishes in the sink instead of
> using the dishwasher."
>
> The developments here offer a window into the anxieties and battles that
> may be ahead for many parts of this drought-stricken region should rain
> not return. Ms. Gustafson said the owners of summer homes threatened not
> to pay their water bills after they were told they could not water their
> lawns; she has responded by vowing to cut off their water.
>
> For Mr. Stowell, the once-modest obligations of running the water
> company have become time-consuming. He spends much of his day dealing
> with homeowners anxious about what the next season will bring, and
> scolding the occasional water scofflaws who resist the conservation
> directives.
>
> "Hey, Bob, did that guy Cliff call you?" Rafael Molina Jr., who oversees
> the daily operations of this and neighboring water systems, said to Mr.
> Stowell. "He wants to snitch on one of his neighbors who is taking water."
>
> Mr. Stowell said most people were pitching in, but added: "There's
> always the people who are driving around, calling in, saying, 'My
> neighbor's doing this, my neighbor's doing that, and he's out there
> washing his car now. The water is running down the street, and he's got
> green grass.'"
>
> He said he had a simple message for any such offender: "I'm sure you'd
> rather take your shower than water your lawn."
>
> The isolated beauty of this community accounts, in large part, for why
> it is so hard to find water. Lake of the Woods is on the edge of Los
> Padres National Forest, all of it off-limits for exploratory drilling.
> It is 5,500 feet up in the mountains, resting on granite.
>
> "It's different in the San Joaquin Valley: You can drill and find
> water," said David A. Warner, a senior community development specialist
> with Self-Help Enterprises, a nonprofit group that has been working with
> homeowners during the drought. "Up here in the mountains, it's much
> harder. They've tried, they've really tried."
>
> This community lies atop on a nest of earthquake faults, anchored by the
> San Andreas Fault. That may not be entirely a bad thing; geologists have
> told water company officials that the best place to look for water this
> high in the mountains is where fault lines meet.
>
> Mr. Warner said the situation was made worse because so many communities
> face similar challenges, and are responding by digging new wells. "The
> problem for them is there are only so many well drillers," he said.
> "Farmers need water. Cities need waters. Everybody is lining up for a
> driller. We had a bid for test wells, and the driller said he won't be
> able to be out there until April."
>
> And as the drought has shown no sign of easing, the water company, with
> emergency financial assistance from California, has intensified its
> efforts to find new water sources: buying land, opening up closed wells
> and drilling ever deeper.
>
> "We did drill three test holes, and we found nothing," Mr. Stowell said.
> "Went down, three, four, five hundred feet. And we didn't find anything.
> Now we're going to go down more, 1,000 feet."
>
> "We'll keep drilling until we find water," Mr. Stowell said as he
> trudged past a closed well, marked by a white cap. "We have three new
> test locations. We're going to attempt to drill down and see if we can
> find more water. I suspect we will eventually find water."
>
> The situation has left people here confronting the kind of questions
> they say people who live in urban areas have never had to consider.
> "Where are you going to get your water from?" said Greg Gustafson, Ms.
> Gustafson's son. "How can you flush your toilets? How can you take a
> shower? How can brush your teeth in the morning? It's not a nice feeling
> knowing that your town could be completely turned into a ghost town
> because they don't have a water supply."
>
> Sean Patrick Farrell contributed reporting.
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-- 
Michael Perelman
Economics Department
California State University
Chico, CA
95929

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