On the water front

Nine hundred billion tonnes of water flow down China's greatest river,
the Yangtze, every year. On the way, it powers the world's biggest
hydro-electric scheme, slakes the thirst of 400 million people and
serves as a rubbish dump for a growing number of supercities, factories,
farms and ships. Jonathan Watts traces its path from source to sea

Thursday November 11, 2004
The Guardian

Meng and Ma are one of Shanghai's most impressive double acts. They
don't crack jokes, they don't sing and dance - at least not in office
hours. No, they do something far more basic: one pours, the other
flushes. Not just glasses, or cisterns, but entire lakes of water. More
than 5m cubic gallons a day.

They are the Mr In and Mr Out of the city's water system: Meng Mingqun,
the lean, polished and bespectacled deputy director of the water supply
administration, is the straight man who turns on the taps and fills the
city's glasses with chemically treated water. Ma Yuandong, the portly,
cheerful, moon-faced director of the municipal drainage administration,
is more like a slapstick clown, pulling the plugs and flushing away the
smelly leftovers.

Although their act has to be repeated tens of millions of times a day,
it ought to be one of the simplest in municipal administration, because
Shanghai is triply blessed with water: it sits at the junction of the
nation's biggest river (the Yangtze), an impressively large tributary of
that river (the Huangpu), and the world's biggest ocean (the Pacific).

Yet that blessing is in danger of becoming a curse because of the speed
at which China is fouling its waterways. After 25 years of the fastest
development the world has ever seen, the country is unsurprisingly
hailed as an economic miracle. But it is not hard to find the downside:
all you need to do is peer down a sewer, taste a drop from almost any
river, or consider where a glass of Shanghai water comes from.

Shanghai is the wealthiest and most environmentally conscious city in
China, but its thirst has never been harder to quench, nor its effluent
harder to manage. In 1978, when Deng Xiaoping first launched his
economic reforms, the population of Shanghai was 12 million. Today
official figures put it at 13.5 million, although unoficially it is
closer to 20 million. Its thickening forest of skyscrapers means that
water is now being pumped up to altitudes of more than 400m, while the
resultant waste - 5,300,000l a day - spreads out across a 6,500km-long
sewage network that Ma's office has expanded at the rate of about 80km a
year. Over the next five years, they will build 16 new waste-treatment
plants, in addition to the existing 20. And still they can't keep up.
More than a third of the city's sewage is dumped in rivers untreated.
"The problems are so huge," says Ma, "that sometimes I can't sleep at
night."

Meng's job is only partially easier. His workers lay 2km of new pipes
every year, while more than six new purification plants have boosted
water supply capacity to 7,160,000m3 per day. He earnestly assures me
that Shanghai's water is so purified that it is not only drinkable, but
among the highest quality urban water in China. I'll take his word for
it, but few locals seem to. A glass of Shanghai water is tinted a faint
yellow, smells of chlorine and tastes like something you'd rather not
swallow - most people boil it, or buy bottled water.

Four-fifths of the city's drinking water currently comes from the
Huangpu which reflects the bright lights of the Pudong skyscrapers and
art-deco colonial buildings on the Bund, but it has become so dirty and
expensive to treat that Meng says the city will soon have to start
taking half its supplies from the more distant Yangtze. The trouble is
that China's environment is being ruined so quickly that even a glass of
water from the mighty Yangtze may soon not be much of an improvement.

Better known in China as the Chang Jiang, or long river, the Yangtze has
always been a symbol of power and prosperity. Traders - first in
sampans, wupans and junks, later in imperial gunboats and international
container ships - have made fortunes on its waters, buying and selling
rice, tea, opium and coal in the crowded cities on its shores. Countless
millions have lost lives and livelihoods in its famously treacherous
waters and devastating floods. Challenging the Yangtze was a test of
virility and vitality for an aging Mao Zedong, who first swam its width
at the age of 64. For the Tang-dynasty poet Li Bai, it was a metaphor
for loss and impermanence:

"That shadow is his lonely sail. Now it is gone, all the blue is empty now.

"All you can see is that long, long river that flows to the edge of the
sky."

For thousands of years, that journey - 3,964 miles (6,379km),
uninterrupted by a single dam - remained unchanged.

These days, by the time it has reached Shanghai, it has supported 400
million people, or one in every 15 people on earth; driven the turbines
of the world's biggest hydroelectric plant, the Three Gorges dam; been
sucked up and spat out by a growing cluster of super-cities, polluted by
countless new factories, fish-farms and reclaimed farmland; and buffeted
by heavy river traffic that now includes container ships, speedboats and
tourist liners. It begins with some of the world's purest water and ends
so corrupted that the WWF says the Yangtze delta has become the biggest
cause of marine pollution in the Pacific.

full: http://www.guardian.co.uk/china/story/0,7369,1348274,00.html
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