Turkey’s Calvinist Muslims

In early 2003, after a visit to Istanbul, I wrote an article titled “Istanbul Impressions” that contained the following observation:

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Not far from my quarters in upper Bostanci (pronounced Bostanji), a middle-class neighborhood on the Asian side reminiscent of Flushing, Queens, there is a major shopping drag called Bagdat Avenue. (There is an accent under the g in Bagdat that Microsoft cannot accommodate. It is silent and is used to extend the vowel immediately before it. In this case, you would pronounce it “Baahdat”.) Despite the fact that this avenue is named after the capital of Iraq, there is nothing Mideastern about it except for the occasional mosque–ubiquitous to all of Istanbul, including the most occidental sections.) It is a bustling thoroughfare with expensive European clothing outlets, banks and doctors’ offices. On Saturday night the sidewalks are crowed with elegantly dressed Turks who often have a full shopping bag in one hand and a cell phone in the other.

(The recent Islamic electoral victory might be interpreted as a reaction to Bagdat Avenue ostentation. However, things are never quite that clear. One of my Turkish hosts pointed out to me a couple of women in scarves who were carrying Hermes handbags. The next day she also brought my attention to a newspaper article that highlighted the success of “Islamic stylishness”, an approach that its promoters hoped to win secular Turks to its cause.)
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Last night PBS Wide Angle aired a documentary titled “Turkey’s Tigers: Faith and Prosperity in Turkey” that fleshed out the scarves/Hermes phenomenon. It was produced by Jon Alpert, an outstanding documentary-maker whose recent HBO film “Baghdad ER” I reviewed a while back. Alpert, who is obviously a very sophisticated artist with a deep understanding of how class society operates, really nails down the Turkish reality here.

“Turkey’s Tigers” focuses on Mustafa Karaduman, CEO of Turkey’s largest Islamic-style clothing chain, Tekbir Giyim. (Tekbir Giyim means “Allah is Great Clothing”). Karaduman decided to fill a market niche in the 1992 by creating stylish clothing for conservative Muslim women. He now has over 600 stores throughout Turkey and across Europe.

full: http://louisproyect.wordpress.com/2006/08/23/turkeys-calvinist-muslims/

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