If using a lubricant on the hub, becareful that it does not make contact with the felt - I am sure we have all seen turntables with nice original felt that has a 4 or 5 inch wide oil stain from sucking up excess lubricant from the hub area...
Walt <waltsomm...@comcast.net> wrote: Try good penetrating oil like "Liquid Wrench" or some other oil that is specifically intended as a solvent rather than WD-40 which is chiefly a lubricant. Apply a few drops in against the top of the hub where the spindle passes through and also from under the motor board if you can get to it. Once you apply the oil, let it soak in for a few minutes to penetrate and then carefully and lightly tap the spindle with a nylon hammer if you have one. If it doesn't come off after that, put a few more drops of penetrating oil in and let it sit overnight and then try it again. (The longer you wait and the more penetrating oil you apply, the better the hopes get. I have let some impossible turntables that were badly rusted sit for months and eventually they fell right off. I have had the same success with seized pot metal reproducers and tone arms, especially Columbia, and have avoided any damage whatsoever. But the trick is to wait, wait, and wait some more, which, admittedly, is not typically that practical.) If that doesn't work, use Ron's recommendation of loosening the spindle drive gear and then working the shaft free by pulling upward. Once free, use a nylon headed hammer rather than steel (or rubber). The nylon is hard and resilient, won't tear up like a rubber mallet, and will not damage the spindle. You might want to squirt some oil (any oil) on the shaft and gear before you try to pull it up because the old Vaseline, dust, hair and whatever else worked its way around the shaft will probably make it gummy and difficult to just slide up through the casting. If you use the two-person technique that Poppa Loarn mentioned just be careful that you don't wind up bending the turntable (very easy to do) or splitting the motor board seams...I speak from experience long ago . Whatever you do, take good care to avoid flexing and bending the turntable or exerting force against the motor board. Few things, except perhaps being 15 miles out in the Atlantic on a 20-foot boat with 18 foot swells, is as unpleasant to me as watching a turntable spin with a pronounced wobble - and balancing them once they are distorted can be tricky. The hammering of any shaft end (spindles, gears, mandrel shafts, leadscrews, etc.) with a regular old steel hammer invites not only the potential for mushrooming the end (I'm sure we have all done this, or almost, at least once), but also the possibility of bending or breaking it. I actually had a customer send me a turntable with the lower end of the shaft still seized into place but he had beaten the end and caused the spindle tip to fracture off. Until I saw that I didn't believe it was possible, but people invent all sorts of new ways to break stuff I suppose. On The Subject of Penetrating Oils: Penetrating oils are not really the same as WD-40, although WD-40 like most any oil can often work, and WD-40 is better than most. But WD-40 is higher in viscosity than actual penetrating oil. Penetrating oils are formulated specifically with high concentrations of mineral spirits to make the viscosity extremely low but most importantly to facilitate the "wicking" of trace amounts of lubricants into nooks and crannies that WD-40 can only dream about getting into - It's simple physics. The longer you wait, the more oil is able to migrate into the area you want to loosen. Walt Sommers Gettysburg Antique Phonographs 717-334-0862 -----Original Message----- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of Ron L Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 12:41 PM To: 'Antique Phonograph List' Subject: RE: [Phono-L] removing turn table & cleaning lead screw & half nut I had a parts motor with a turn table so stuck that I had to loosen the brass gear on the center spindle, pull the entire shaft out of the motor and then beat the shaft out of the TT while I supported the hub. I ended up flattening the end of the shaft a bit but I was able to reshape it adequately on a lathe. I had been soaking it with PB Blaster and before that, WD 40 for ages and it would not loosen up. I even tried heating the TT a bit. When the method outlined below did not work, I resorted to what I described above. Usually, if you have someone hang on to the TT evenly a tap on the center spindle delivered by a second person will get the tt to separate. Don't let the motor drop too far or too fast. Ron L -----Original Message----- From: phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org [mailto:phono-l-boun...@oldcrank.org] On Behalf Of cdra...@ipa.net Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 12:23 PM To: phono-l@oldcrank.org Subject: [Phono-L] removing turn table & cleaning lead screw & half nut I have a Victor VV IV table top that the turn table does not want to come off. Any suggestions? Also what is a good method of cleaning the lead screw and half nut on an Edison cylinder machine? Thanks in advance, Charles cdra...@ipa.net EarthLink Revolves Around You. _______________________________________________ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org _______________________________________________ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. 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