Hi list. Two years ago, i think, somebody put on the list a process to obtain paper negatives by reversal. I have mailed another process, see below, but i want to compare the two process. Anybody remembers this, or something like this?
I put this email in the pinhole list also, sorry for duplication if anybody is on both list. Thanks Manuel, Spain My process (from http://www.rit.edu/~andpph/faq.html) PROCESSING ENLARGING PAPER AS A POSITIVE ...means you can use the paper in a camera and make one-of-a-kind images... ...roughly collected from info seen in various rec.photo postings... If you use the paper as a material in the camera then you may wish to consider using Panalure for "normal" looking results in terms of tonal reproduction. This is becasue normal B&W papers are not sensitive to red and thus anything colored red in a scene will turn out very dark or black. You can also make B&W prints directly from slides this way. Place a slide in the enlarger and project it onto B&W paper. Again, to maintain more natural looking tones use Panalure. The chemicals and processing steps are as follows: First Developer 60-90 seconds Rinse 30 seconds Bleach R-9 30-60 seconds Rinse 30 seconds Clear CB-1 30 seconds Rinse 30 seconds Expose to light 40 W bulb for 5-10 seconds at 12 inches Second Developer30-60 seconds Fix 30-60 seconds WashNormal paper washing time Dry First Developer: The original literature referring to this method of making positive prints from slides is Kodak Publication G-14, "Direct Positive Photography". You can probably get a copy of it by calling the Kodak Hot Line at 800-242-2424. In any case, that booklet specified a high contrast developer such as D-88. Dektol or D-72 dilited 1:1 can probably be substituted successfully for D-88. Rinses should be under running water, or at least two changes in the 30 seconds. The bleach is modified Kodak Bleach R-9: Water 800 mL Potassium Dichromate9.5 g Sodium Bisulfate 66 g Water to make 1 L Clear CB-1: Sodium Sulfite 90 g Water to make 1 L Second Developer can be Dektol again. Or if you want a sepia toned print, skip the light exposure and use Sulfide Redeveloper T-19 (Sodium Sulfide 20 g with water to make 1 L). As with any positive process, the resultant density value is opposite from ordinarily processed paper: More exposure = lighter print, less exposure = darker print.