Yes, water-based inks work, but in that case you have
to use a block made of something slightly absorbent
that will hold the ink. In Japan, cherry wood was
traditional (very expensive today), but any good wood
will do. Surely there are other things that would be
suitable, but metal plates (copper, brass, aluminum
and zinc, among others can be used with oil-based
inks), rubber, linoleum, etc. don't work with
water-based inks. In my own work, I use combinations
of wood and cardboard as the "plates" but use
oil-based inks because the cardboard holds up better
that way.

Still interested to hear if anyone knows what kind of
tonal range the oven cleaner method allows. Also
interested in ongoing reports on the UV-sensitive
resin emulsion developed in water that someone
mentioned. I suspect these both require screens to get
any kind of tonal range. Given the already highly 
contrasty nature of pinhole negtives in many cases, I
wonder if this approach would yield good results very
often, but who knows?

For what it's worth, all the oil-based stuff can be
done using relatively benign fuel oil (Japanese
toyu--Ed help me if this is the wrong translation) as
the solvent. It's not very volatile nor is it as
carcinogenic as the stuff people often use (often
benzene-rich). I'm very sensitive to solvents as well
and this stuff is OK for me. The process is
time-consuming, however. You either have the
temperament for it or you don't. It can be tedious and
messy--you're definitely right about that.

Colin

--- Gregory Parkinson <g...@panix.com> wrote:
> I love printing off of photo plates, but what I
> couldn't
> get into the was the prep and cleanup time for each
> print.  Inking the plate - and then cleaning it for
> the
> next print - was a time-consuming and messy job that
> involved the use of lots of solvents.  I didn't like
> breathing
> that stuff for so long.
> 
> Can you use water-based inks for this process?
> 


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