Amid the Destruction, a Return to Life in Gaza
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/25/world/middleeast/25mideast.html?_r=...
GAZA — The boys clapped and sang to pulsating music. They played
games
and shouted. It could have been a group activity at any school in any
place, but this was the middle school in the Jabaliya refugee camp in
Gaza, near where the United Nations says some 40 people were killed
by
Israeli mortar fire earlier this month.
Saturday was the first day of school since before the war, and 1,000
homeless people had been removed from the building so that classes
could begin.

Even then, normal schoolwork had to wait. A team trained in trauma
and
group activities was running the assembly, and after the singing and
clapping, there was a play devoted to how to handle dangerous
materials, like shell parts, still in or near homes. Later, each
pupil
described what had happened to him and to his friends and family in
Israel’s 23-day war aimed at stopping Hamas’s rockets.


“They are not ready to learn yet,” said Asem Bajah, an English
teacher, as he watched the singing. “And I am not ready to teach.”


One week after the war between Israel and Hamas stopped, Gaza remains
in a kind of stupor. There are numbers, of course, to describe its
misery — 4,000 homes destroyed, 21,000 badly damaged, 100,000 people
homeless, according to several aid agencies — but they do not tell
the
full story.


Most of Gaza, especially the capital, Gaza City, remains largely
intact. This is not Grozny after the Chechen war or Dresden after
World War II. The hospitals are coping; shops are reopening; traffic
is becoming a problem once again. Israel has tripled the amount of
goods flowing in here since before the war.


But the areas where Israeli tanks and artillery poured in at the
start
of the ground war are devastated: Juhr el Dik to the east, Beit
Lahiya, El Atatra and sections of Jabaliya to the north, as well as
the outer Gaza City neighborhoods of Zeitoun and Toufah.


Homes have been blown up or bulldozed, their squashed furniture
visible beneath layers of collapsed concrete. Factories — for paint,
dairy products, soft drinks — have been smashed. Schools have 10-foot
holes in their walls. Wedding halls are blackened hulks. The American
International School, a private institution in northern Gaza, has
been
destroyed. Mosques are gone.


Moreover, in addition to the buildings that housed Hamas’s main
security networks, institutions like the parliament, the main
ministries, the central prison and nearly all the police stations are
crushed beyond repair.


In some homes, families have been cleaning for five days straight,
removing bullet casings, sweeping broken glass, sorting through
charred clothing. Since electricity has been lost in most of those
areas, the evenings see families gathered around makeshift fires
outside, cooking and warming themselves.


In the neighborhood of Zeitoun, where 30 members of an extended
family, the Samounis, were killed and homes were bulldozed, survivors
can be seen each day using hoes and other crude tools on the piles of
rubble and dirt hoping to salvage a few useful or valuable items.


A couple of days ago, Ghalia Samouni, 44, was sitting atop one such
pile and picking away at it with her bare hands, explaining that she
had left 1,000 Israeli shekels, or about $250, in a bag somewhere
around there before the war started. Her daughter Amani, 19, was
trying to find her gold and identity card as she dug a few feet away.


In El Atatra, where a mosque and many homes around it were destroyed,
Israeli troops said they had uncovered a hand-drawn map showing homes
that had been booby-trapped with explosives. It was hard to match the
map with the area, and residents said they were farmers, not
fighters,
and that there had been no explosives or booby traps in their houses.
But several acknowledged that under the area’s main street was a long
tunnel used by Hamas’s fighters, now collapsed by Israeli explosives.


Still, the impression left from the worst-hit areas was that Israeli
troops entered expecting a horrific battle. Little came their way,
apparently because Hamas fighters decided that it was not worth
dying,
and Israel’s casualty count was low. But the damage is overwhelming.


Hamas officials have slowly emerged from hiding over the past few
days, although the top leaders have remained underground, apparently
worried that their lives could be in danger.


Their police force is back on the streets. On Saturday, in Remal, a
neighborhood in central Gaza, policemen in blue uniforms gathered in
front of what used to be their headquarters as a bulldozer heaved a
mangled car out of the way behind them. They had been doing their
work
from the sidewalk, they said. One had even caught a burglar in town.


“Our building is gone, but we still come to work in the morning,”
said
one policeman, as another reached up to a lamppost to hang a
portrait,
pulled from the rubble, of Sheik Ahmed Yassin, the spiritual leader
of
Hamas who was killed by Israel in 2004.


Gaza has no functioning glass or cement factories and has not been
able to bring in raw materials for them for months because Israel and
Egypt closed commercial crossings. Now efforts are under way to
change
that.


John Holmes, a United Nations humanitarian relief official who came
here on Thursday, said by telephone that he had been talking with
Israel about how to get such materials and other vital components to
rebuild.


“We need to fix the water and sanitation networks as quickly as we
can,” he said. “That means importation of construction materials on a
big scale. It has not happened for the last 18 months. The Israelis
don’t say no, but they say we need to have assurances it will not be
misused by Hamas. We are trying to work out the mechanisms.”


Hamas officials left Gaza on Saturday for Cairo, where they were to
discuss longer term cease-fire details.


In Israel, officials said that on Sunday, the cabinet is expected to
discuss a proposal that the government defend the military if there
are any international attempts to accuse it of improper activity or
war crimes. The proposal is expected to assert that soldiers and
officers operated in accordance with international law, the
military’s
values and moral principles.





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