Holy shit, I got mentioned in a Marie Arsenault post...my life is
over! <g>  Man...whatta time.  Despite all concerns voiced hereabouts (and
internally-I hadn't been back to SXSW since '91), it was very worth the trip.
Warning; this is a long, sickeningly self-indulgent post.  I just hope it's
kind of something folks who didn't get to go would want to read.  To help in
the deletion/skimming decision <g>, a quick run down of the contents w/in;

Thursday nite: Eaglesmith-Buckner/ Jon Dee Graham-Billy Joe Shaver.  
Friday; Bloodshot Party (Waco Brothers)/ Those Bastard Souls-Grandaddy-Mercury
Rev-Sparklehorse-Flaming Lips/ P2         
     after party.  
Saturday; ND-Miles of Music Broken Spoke Party/ Gourds & Guided By
Voices@Waterloo Park/ Bloodshot Showcase    
     w/ Trailer Bride-The Blacks-Neko Case-Grievous Angels-Waco Brothers
also; funny quotes throughout, food reviews (very short <g>), adjective "cool"
typed many times, no charge, etc. etc. etc..(;-))

     Thursday; Got in Friday 7:30ish.  Black sheets of rain.  Got lost in
Austin several times, even tho I've been there many times years before.  Tried
to go to Eaglesmith-Buckner first @ Caucus Club and then run over to see
Shaver at Jazz Bon Temps.  As a wristband holder and non-bizzer, Eaglesmith-
Buckner was the only show all week I could not get into, even tho badge
holders were starting to joust for position-an uneasy beginning what with some
of the "stay away if you're not in the industry warnings" I'd heard.  No
problem tho; I desperately wanted to see Billy Joe Shaver who I never had
before, so I just headed to Jazz Bon Temps on 6th St. straightaway.  

    Smart decision.  Very cool and spacious club, no problem getting in, Jon
Dee Graham was solid as an opener for Shaver, even tho I'd never heard his
stuff.   Funny quote was "Buy my new CD so I can stop painting houses!".
excellent set.  Shaver took stage 1ish and for the first 30 minutes anyway,
I'll swear he just picked up the Good Book of hard tonk and wrote several new
chapters, I mean I was just standing there with a huge grin the whole time.
Called up 2 of Johnny Cash's kids, John Carter Cash and one of the daughters
(not Roseanne) to sing "Georgia on A Fast Train", I think it was.  Set
eventually fell apart a bit due to a drum solo (?) and sound problems, but
still ended strongly with "You Can't Beat Jesus Christ", I think.  

       And man oh man, Eddie Shaver is a guitar gawd.  I'd heard he was good
but I meantotellya...he was damn good.  Kind of combines best of SRV's throaty
strat sound with a dirty slide, with a bit of  metal and Cali country sound as
well.  Great quotes from Billie Joe during a tuning break; "We tune up just to
prove we're country" (which was riotous).  Also said he had lost a '29 Martin
(I think?) to Dickey Betts, which Billie Joe said he "could not return because
his uncle has cancer".....(;-)).  Sounds kinda cheesy but the thing that kept
running through my mind was "man, if Billie Joe Shaver ain't Texas I don't
know what is".  I was a very a happy man.  SXSW got off to a very solid
start.....

     Friday; Bloodshot Party, 3-6ish.  Wandered in, didn't know anyone right
away, started talking to a really cool chick from the aolND folder, Karen B.
and we luckily started to figger out who some of the ND folks were (if anyone
knows Karen's email addy please lemme know, you aol folk).  Met Linda Ray and
Jamie and her friend Kari, very cool.   Couldn't believe this party was set up
as cool as I'd heard it always was; just in back of a folk-art gallery, beer
everywhere (even tho I was too scared to start drinking that early <g>), etc.
etc.  Missed Neko Case's set, very pissed at self.  Other Bloodshot acts
sounded good, but nothing really starts til Wacos take stage.  Langford et.
al. joke around for a bit, demand alcohol, joke some more...then.... All hell
breaks loose.  Wacos are a band I'd always heard of but never seen.  Riotous.
I mean I thought the Bottlerockets were the best bar band in America, and I
probably still do....but I'd have to say it's up for grabs, even tho I think
the 'rockets have better songs overall.  Great time tho.  Best quote; Wacos
get Beatle Bob up on stage, Langford shouts "Sing a song you idiot!!!"
Fantastic.  And Bill is right, the Lonesome Bob-Waco collaboration on "Do You
Think About Me?" was searing...

      more Friday;  Despite many competing shows (Lucinda-REK vs. Walser &
Watson), I was a bit worried about getting twanged out over the long weekend
so I opted for the V2 records indie-alt.rock showcase at La Zona Rosa, with a
number of interesting bands I'd really never seen before and very much wanted
to.  I went very early about 8:45ish which turned out to be the *whole* key to
getting in, because by 9:30 it was no go for most folk, even wristbands.

  saw Those Bastard Souls, which some one told me have ex-members of The
Grifters in 'em (?), and struck me as kind of a Afghan Whigs/art-folk type of
act, and not bad.  Grandaddy was next, a kind of emo-core band which I was
told are very big in England right now.  They were somewhat Portishead-like
and not bad at all.  Then Mercury Rev, who'd I'd heard a good deal about.
Hell, I don't know how to describe them except they remind me somewhat of a
band from a few years ago called The Ocean Blue, only harder.  Maybe a little
too "indie" for me, but they had some very good songs, were great players and
really captivated the crowd, which was swelling by this time.  Could be a big
band (hell they probably already are as far as I know <g>)

   The act I really came to see was next at midnight, Sparklehorse.  I'd kind
of seen them once before opening for Son Volt in '95, but hadn't paid enough
attention to them then.  That was pre near-death experience for Mark Linkous,
their leader.  Anyway, if you're aware of this band, or if you aren't, theyre
kind of a ...hell, I don't know, but I hear a some twang, some space-rock,and
some pure pop in  'em.  But very dark.  And god knows Linkous is all that,
just incredibly ....well, out there.  Slowest man in the business, looks like
he's in super slo-mo the whole time.  Weird cat.  But good show.

    Flaming Lips were last up...  Another act I'd always heard about but never
seen.  Unreal.  Huge projection screen with constant streaming video of
anything bizarre you can think of; exploding airplanes, beating bodily organs,
sperm wars under microscope....very un-Opryesque <g>.  Lead singer (sorry,
can't remember name) singing very well, really crooning as I think Linda Ray
put it.  Also, turning around and beating the hell of a full sized Asian-like
gong.  Like I said, weeeiiiirrrrdddd show.  But very good.

  Very amazing story re this whole night; before any of the folks I knew who
were gonna show up here, I was just walking around La Zona Rosa getting the
feel for it, chatting up a few of the many Japanese guys in town for SXSW
(very funny indeed, scared out of their gourds and blown away by the whole
scene.  In fact, whenever I got bored at all at SXSW I looked around for folks
from abroad (I have this weird talent of being able to hone in on anyone, no
matter how American-looking and spot them out) and started asking them how
they were enjoying things in Austin, Texas, whether they think all Americans
are crazy, etc. etc.  Fantastic conversations.  Anyway...I was leaning up
against the cigarette machine, when I noticed some guy being like the 4th or
5th person in row having major trouble getting anything out of it.  So I
leaned over, warned him of this.  Reply came back in thick British accent, so
I was immediately interested in talking to him.  
   We started asking each other what acts were seeing, and liking, what bands
he likes anyways, why the heck he came all the way over to se SXSW, etc. etc.
Takes about 30  minutes or so, but after getting fairly deep into it, I
realize I recognize the guys' name fom over on Postcard1, one of the few folks
over there who makes sense all of the time <g>), and I've emailed before
offlist about various stuff.  All that in a club with now a thousand folks
inside probably.  Bizarre I tell you.  Came all the way over from England with
a good buddy, just to see SXSW as a fan and America for the first time.
Really nice guy but did have a really funny comment about this place! (sorry-
not telling)  We ended up getting along famously, hanging out most of the rest
of the weekend, etc. etc.  Amazing......

      'Nother cool story; hanging out in a corner of LZR early on I was
stunned to see Richard Buckner and girlfriend-drummer Penny waklkng right at
me.  Now I'm usually one who is very wary of approaching musicians, especially
the ones I more or less worship, and even tho I've heard many positive things
about Buckner being cool, I was pretty reticent.  They'd stopped to hang out
pretty much right next to me tho, so couldn't overcome the desire to at least
say hi to Penny, who'd I'd spoken to just very shortly 3 weeks ago when they
opened for Son Volt in StL.  After talking to her for 2-3 minutes, I started
to get paranoid that RB would think I was hitting on his woman, so I thought
"shoot, now I'd better say something to him", really wanting to do no more
than say thanks for the great music and to compliment him on the new
electrified-and-drums approach to live performing.  Anyway, yeah, what you've
heard.  Buckner's totally cool, very happy to talk, and genuinely grateful for
any compliments he receives, despite whatever he may have recently said about
the whole alt.country scene, especially since I'd (accidentally?<g>) described
myself as a fan of same in trying to tell him what I was listening to these
days.  nice guy.

   P2 after party at Austin Motel.  My first time meeting all you crazy people
<g>.  Jamie Swedberg, very cool, just like I thought she'd be.  Very
Minnesotan <g>.   Meshel and Marie....powerful women indeed.  I didn't mess
with 'em....(they're actually quite nice and laid-back, sharp dressers).  Amy
Haugesag and husband Eric.  Very cool, and a big thrill, as I think Amy's a
great writer, and I'm sorry I lost touch with you 2 on Saturday.    Alex
Millar....not as crazy as I thought.  A great guy.  Chris Knaus...too mellow!
(;-)).    Bill Silvers, very cool.  Yates....a big letdown....<g>.  Naw...I
was in awe of the big guy.  Dropped no bombs on anyone.  Deborah, very cool as
well.  Stacey Taylor, very nice-I''m all for Hellcountry, even if I've never
been.   Damn, I'm forgetting probably a lot of people.  Biggest
disappointments the whole weekend?  I never got to meet Neal Weiss or Jeff or
Jim Caligiuri to thank him for my wristband (thanks!).   Ah well...those LA
bizzers, it's a whole 'nother world I'm sure <g>.  Major bummer.

     Anyway, lurkers, in case you're wondering about whether to meet these
folk, do it.  Everyone is very cool, has good hygiene, and is very welcoming!
And even tho we were pretty low-key, I struggled out of there about 3:40 am-
ish and they were still up and going strong-amazing.

    Anyway, Saturday.   I was beginning to wear down., for sure.  But I had
never seen the Broken Spoke nor had met hardly any of my aol No Depression
foldermates either, so I as pumped up for this.  Broken Spoke incredibly cool.
I don't know whether it's now just an anachronism or what., but it looked
pretty legit to me.  It really down feels like a bloody 1940's honky-tonk, you
wouldn't even know the Internet existed inside this place.  Met many people,
including Andre Kopostynski (sp??? (;-)).  Very cool guy, told me he'd be
contributing here more in future.
    Serious cool stuff; while I'm gabbing away not paying attention, someone
tells me to shut up and actually watch what's going on stage; Lucinda Williams
just strolling up and singing a song with....Continental Drifters?  I can't
remember.  I was stunned.  Then, Doug Sahm gets up later to accept an award
from someone for Mendocino or something selling a whole beacoup
numbers...someone else will have to fill all this in.. I was in alt.country
heaven for something.  Very cool; fine hospitality by the Miles of Music and
ND folks.

   Next up was Waterloo Park, Gourds and Guided By Voices outside, 70 degrees,
big crowd but everyone could easily see (what is it about Austin, everything
works???).  Gourds very solid, sound was great.  Met Matt Cook.  Very laid
back, nothing like what we'd all thought...<g>.  Also met Dancer (Amanda
Pearse).  Also very cool; tried to get her goat, I told her she I'd seen Dave
Pirner over by one of the beer tents....<g>..  For at least half a second she
started to freak  but didn't buy it-hah!  Guided By Voices were next.  Another
famous underground band I'd never seen but always heard about.  Just like I'd
heard, Bob Pollard bounded on stage, slamming cold ones., band cranked up very
loud, good power pop was had by all.  I wasn't blown away by 'em but throughly
enjoyed myself.

    halfway through GBV's set tho I started getting paranoid about the
Bloodshot evening showcase possibly selling out due to Sat-night crush.  That
and having missed Neko Case at the Yard Dog party. I decided to take no
chances and head over to Jazz Bon Temps and get in early.  Walked in 9:15ish,
no problems (and by the way the whole staff at that club us incredibly cool,
never charging me for any of the Sprites I drank the whole weekend after the
first one, and I had about 10 a night (I was saving myself for what I expected
to be late night beer-bonging with Alexzilla....<ggg>))

   Anyway, quickly;-damn-sorry for length here!-; Trailer Bride was ok-didn't
really see or hear enough.  The Blacks; liked 'em but maybe not as good as I'd
heard.  Neko Case; stellar, but I was already a pretty huge fan (;-)).  Played
all new stuff, save for opening with Bowling Green and maybe also
playing...Karoline?  But otherwise all new stuff.  Michael Lemon, ex-Holler on
excellent lead guit and I think a bit of lap steel?.  Set was a little too
heavy on slow torch-songs for my tastes, and I think Neko's band needs to work
on possibly changing around some arrangements-there's a lack of dymanic range
in the instrumentation-but still a very good set.  Neko's voice huge.  And the
2 or 3 rockers she did play (new ones) were excellent.  Said new record
probably out in August, altho she was putting the hammer on Rob Bpoodshot
about getting it out sooner (as was I <g>).   In another bit of cheesy music-
fandown, I bought Neko's two 7" Blooshot singles and the Pine Valley
Cosmonauts on vinyl and asked her to sign them which she was very happy to do.

    Grievous Angels next; very solid set of straight honky tonk.  I don;t know
whether these guys' records are as good as their live show was, but I'm kind
of worried that maybe the fact that they look like such regular guys might be
holding them back a bit.  But they sounded awful sharp to me.

  Waco Brothers:  What can I say?   They took no prisoners.  Sweat, screaming,
craziness.  Bill S. was right, the speaker stacks were just waving back and
forth.  There's very few dangerous bands left in this country but they Wacos
are probably one of the few left.  One thing I really like about them is that
being such a youngster <g>, I basically missed all of the late 70's early 80's
punk movement in this country (I was incarcerated in a dinosaur-rock prison
during that time in St. Louis-Kip and John W. will get that) .  Anyway, even
tho Langford's a few years past his glory days as a vanguard for that
movement, I find an awful lot of raw punk ethos intact in the Wacos, and I'm
all for it (I don't know about the Mekons these days, never seen 'em).   

Great Langford quotes; " I haven't seen this motley a crowd since that manhole
ion Halstead" (or something like that).  

Also; "I wasn't wild about the politics but the uniforms were all right" (very
sarcastic, re some Nazi parade he'd seen in the Chicago area, or
something...someone help me out on those if you remember 'em better than I
do).....(close to end here (;-)) 

       But about 2/3ds of the way into their set I was starting to feel
massive pain in my lower back, hips, and eardrums from 3 days of so much
standing and noise, and I had to leave my place of head-banging on the floor
next to Bill Silvers.  I actually found a great place that was much quieter
to watch the show behind the stage in Jazz Bon Temps and watched the end from
there.  As the Wacos finished their final encore (Baba O'Riley <g>), Langford
did some sort of Pete Townshend-type windmill and smashed his hand into a
wooden eave or something above the stage.  I saw him yank it back in pain but
couldn;t tell what sort of injury he'd suffered.  In yet one final act of
cheesy rock fandom, I nonetheless tried to shake his had as he ran right by me
after the final song in a blur of sweat.  Just as our hands almost met he
yanked it back saying "not that one, mate", and high-fived me with his left
hand.  As best I could see he had a pretty good amount of blood or serious
bruising on the right hand as he headed in to the john.  
        As came back out I told him to go see a bartender to get it dressed
but he just shook it off and "aww, fuck it", and headed into the backstage.
Amazing.

   Anyway, that's just one way too-damned-long version of the CSRF known as
SXSW.   Even tho I did it as a non-bizzer I had a massively great time, and
don't see how anyone wouldn't as well.  Like I said, the Eaglemith-Buckner
thing was the only thing I didn't get into I wanted to, but that was no big
deal, really-Shaver was the main goal that night anyway.  As long as you have
a wristband, as far as I could tell, you could get into almost anything as
long as you go early, except for the 2-3 biggest shows of the week, like Tom
Waits and maybe 1 or 2 others.  There's so much great music it really is
amazing-I can't believe from other posts already how much music I missed..
Food stuff; ate at Jovita's and Guero's for Mexican w/ my out-of-town buddy,
both excellent and highly recommended...

      Also, you don't have to be a bizzer to score free stuff <g>.   I'm a
total record geek, and I walked out with I think 6-7 (good) free samplers and
other records, as well as cool posters (I mean good posters), stickers, all
kinds of swag.  I actually tried like hell to get my plane reservation
extended through Monday due to wanting to see either the Alejandro-Pine Valley
Cosmonauts thig, or the Stubbs' Donald Lindley trib which I think was due to
have Lucinda, Ely, probably Willie and god knows how many other major
players......ahh well.  The buzz on those 2 shows was pretty heavy for lots of
"special guests" on Sunday, so even those of us who had to leave on Sunday
will probably be in pain when reports from those roll in....<g>.

damn-sorry about length!

dan bentele



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