Largely Empty, Stronghold of Militia Is Still Perilous

By RICHARD A. OPPEL Jr.
Published: August 14, 2006

BINT JBAIL, Lebanon, Aug. 12 — Not long ago, this town
was known as
"the capital of the resistance," the most important
Hezbollah
stronghold in the southern reaches of Lebanon.

Now Bint Jbail appears largely deserted. Most of the
homes are
damaged, some pockmarked by bullets or shrapnel and
others reduced to
piles of stone and concrete by Israeli artillery that
continues to
pound the village.

But while Israeli troops have pushed farther north,
Bint Jbail remains
a very dangerous place for Israeli soldiers and a
fitting illustration
for why the war has become so frustrating for troops
who had come to
expect a swift and deep push into Lebanon.

Late on Wednesday night, Israeli soldiers from the
elite Golani
Brigade hiked five miles through darkness over tall
hills carrying
full packs, rifles and heavy jugs of water, arriving
here a few hours
before dawn. Accompanied by a reporter, they holed up
in the second
story of an unfinished house.

Hezbollah attacked a few hours later, at 8 a.m.,
firing a powerful
missile into a Merkava tank in front of the house,
wounding two crewmen.

Two hours later, a second antitank missile slammed
into the top of the
three-story house with a thunderous crack, shattering
some of the few
remaining windowpanes and shaking the home violently.

No soldiers had been on the top floor, and no one was
hurt. But after
two close calls, commanders herded a dozen enlisted
men into the room
thought to offer the most protection from missiles, an
unfinished
bathroom on the first floor. A few other members of
the 20-man unit
lay down outside the room, in an area between thick
concrete walls.

The unit that had taken shelter in this house, part of
the Golani
Brigade's 51st Battalion, spent the next 36 hours
sitting
cramped-legged on bathroom tiles, dozing while leaning
on one another,
their rifles and their buddies' legs on top of them.
Hezbollah
missiles continued to occasionally explode nearby.

It was not the battalion's first mission here. On July
26, eight
battalion soldiers were killed in close-quarters
fighting with
Hezbollah militiamen, including a deputy commander who
threw himself
on a live grenade to save the men around him.

Instead of that sort of fighting, the Israeli troops
in Bint Jbail now
dread the Hezbollah missiles that have forced the
Israelis to alter
much of its battle plan, as troops in Lebanon tailor
their moves in
fear of the militia's modern and accurate weapons.
After first pushing
into Lebanon in heavy armor, the Israeli forces are
doing much more on
foot and also walking at night to avoid giving the
Hezbollah missile
units an easy target, commanders here said. Even in
areas well behind
the front lines, the soldiers' days are spent hiding
away from windows
in reinforced, interior rooms to avoid the danger
demonstrated by
Thursday morning's near misses.

This battle resembles Russia's fight against Chechen
rebels, said
Vladi, one of the Israeli soldiers who took shelter in
the house here.
An émigré who fought in the Russian Army, Vladi, who
declined to give
his last name, said Israel now faced a more robust foe
than the
Chechens. "Hezbollah is tougher," he said.

On the ridge where the 51st Battalion hunkered down,
many homes were
of sturdy, expensive construction. The partly built
home where the
20-member unit of the Golani Battalion had taken
shelter appeared to
be intended for a wealthy family, with thick concrete
walls and
ceilings, elaborate crown moldings, and stylish
tiling. Now it was
strewn with shards of glass, heaps of dust, wood
splinters and trash.
After Thursday's missile strikes, Col. Omri Bar-David
peered through
pieces of glass still hanging in a window frame and
pointed to a ridge
about two miles away being bombed by Israeli jets.
That, he said, is
where the missiles were launched.

Both missiles that struck Thursday were Russian-made
Kornets, with a
range up to about three miles, said Colonel Bar-David,
a reserve
commander of another battalion, and a corporate lawyer
in civilian
life, who had made the trip with the Golani soldiers.

"At first we sent the armor in, but the Hezbollah had
missiles," he
said. "So we decided to use the old method on two
legs." Hezbollah
fighters, he added, are skilled and resilient. "From
the point of view
of the individual soldier, they are better than the
Arab armies that
surround us," he said, referring to other Middle
Eastern nations.

The missile attacks on Thursday morning were
dangerous, but nothing
like earlier battles in Bint Jbail and nearby
villages. In one attack,
Hezbollah militiamen struck a house of Israeli
soldiers with three
missiles, killing two men and wounding 30 — everybody
in the house,
said Joel Abel, a sergeant and medic for a unit of
paratroopers that
had been engaged in fierce fighting in Bint Jbail,
Aita al Shaab and
Marun al Ras. Interviewed in northern Israel as he
waited for his unit
to return to Lebanon, Sergeant Abel described how
missile attacks and
cramped quarters had taken their toll on some younger
soldiers in his
unit who had been holed up in houses attacked by
Hezbollah.

"They were quite hysterical," he said. "They sat on
the side and
didn't know what to do. It was the first time they'd
ever seen that
kind of fighting," he said, fighting "you don't see
from the
Palestinians."

At one point, Sergeant Abel said, a soldier preparing
to fire at a
Hezbollah position dived into a small room with five
other soldiers to
avoid another incoming missile. He said the Israeli
soldier
accidentally fired his weapon, severing the leg of
another soldier who
screamed, "My leg is boiling. Save me!"

During a moment of relative quiet at the house in Bint
Jbail, a few
younger troops listened as the most experienced
soldier in the house,
Col. Shlomo Parente, 48, who first fought in Lebanon
during Israel's
occupation more than two decades ago, tried to put
this war into some
perspective.

"In the first war we got to the Litani after four or
five days," he
said, referring to the river. "This is different.
Hezbollah doesn't
run, they know how to fight, and they are fanatics."

In an interview later, Colonel Parente also blamed
Israeli leaders,
saying their indecisiveness was responsible for the
lack of progress.
"This time it's like fighting through chewing gum, or
glue," he said.

Nor does he have faith in the Lebanese Army, which
under the United
Nations cease-fire plan would patrol southern Lebanon
with an
international peacekeeping force. While the cease-fire
is supposed to
go into effect on Monday morning, it was not clear how
soon the actual
fighting would stop. "They are no good," he said of
the Lebanese
soldiers. "They are afraid of Hezbollah."

The Golani soldiers got along well despite the cramped
quarters. They
slept with their heads on one another's shoulders as
they occasionally
fidgeted to get more comfortable, or emerged from the
bathroom to take
a turn standing guard.

"It's been ugly," said Dudi Levisohn, an enlisted man,
as he stood
guard. "But it's our job."

Speaking matter-of-factly, without sarcasm, he added,
"We suffer so
the people in Tel Aviv can enjoy themselves."

http://www.nytimes.com/2006/08/14/world/middleeast/14troops.html?ei=5094&en=a64850e09017dffd&hp=&ex=1155614400&partner=homepage&pagewanted=all


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