Gedung Sate still stands strong after 85 years
Yuli Tri Suwarni, The Jakarta Post, Bandung

At nine o'clock one Friday morning, the voice of the sinden (singer of 
traditional songs), sang out Sundanese folk songs, accompanied by the sound 
of the traditional Sundanese bamboo flute and kecapi, a stringed musical 
instrument, began to reverberate from the tower of Gedung Sate.

Gedung Sate, literally the "skewered-meat building", is called so because at 
the top of it there is a structure shaped like a skewer with six 
rose-apple-like pieces of meat.

The melodious voice of the sinden traveled far and wide along with the 
breeze, causing the leaves in the big trees growing around the building to 
flutter and warmly caressing the hearts of pedestrians and locals near the 
building.

Praising the beautiful Parahyangan land, another name for West Java, these 
songs sent several security guards into a deep nap at their guard posts on 
the left wing of the building.

This singing program lasts for two hours every Friday morning, starting at 9 
a.m., just before hundreds of Muslim civil servants -- of high and low rank 
-- working in the building, which is now the West Java provincial 
administration office, go to the west hall of the building, located on the 
first floor, for communal Friday prayers.

That day was the third Friday for the group of sinden to perform their 
singing in the tower of the building. Previously, their singing performances 
were conducted in the main hall of the building, right in front of the 
entrance.

Later, West Java Governor Danny Setiawan decided to move the performers to 
the tower of the building as he wanted the songs to be enjoyed, not only by 
some 900 civil servants working in the building, but also by the wider 
public.

The group of sinden and traditional Sundanese flute and kecapi players may 
consider themselves luckier than most people because they can easily enjoy 
the beautiful panorama of Bandung city from the tower of the building and 
allow their eyes to feast on the beautiful scenery of Mount Tangkuban Parahu 
in Lembang. The building is a legacy of the Dutch colonial administration.

Unfortunately, the governor has yet to allow the public to ascend to the 
tower and savor the beautiful panorama unfolding before them.

"We're not yet proposing to open the tower to the public because we're 
afraid that their presence there will be a distraction to hundreds of 
provincial administration employees working in the building," said Daud 
Ahmad, an official at the provincial administration.

Daud said that the public had not been free to visit the building, which 
will be 85-years-old on July 27. The West Java provincial administration 
occupied the building in 1980.

The main reason for not allowing the public to ascend to the tower is the 
security and comfort of provincial administration personnel.

To improve the security aspects of the building, after the commemoration 
earlier this year of the golden jubilee of the First Asia-Africa Conference, 
the building was provided with a metal detector at its main entrance.

The building, designed by Dutch architect J. Berger, has also been equipped 
with a closed-circuit television (CCTV) system so that the condition around 
it can be monitored.

"If there is a protest rally, we can easily be alerted. The moment the 
protesters appear on the monitor TV screen, we will close the front gates. 
Allowing them in will only lead to commotion and damage the garden," said 
Daud, explaining why CCTV had been procured.

However, he added, that the tower of was open to a limited group of people 
only, for example, researchers or international visitors wishing for some 
nostalgia about the place. Of course, they must first apply for a special 
permit from the internal affairs department of the building.

'Beautiful building'

The building, which D. Ruhl referred to as Indonesia's most beautiful 
building in his 1952 book, Bandoeng haar Hoogvlakte, is now aptly used as 
the West Java provincial administration office.

Indeed, built on a plot of land measuring over 27,000 square meters, the 
building was erected to house the central administration of the Dutch 
colonial government.

During the Dutch period, it was known as Gouvernments Bedrijven. The Dutch 
chose Bandung as the seat of its administration in the East Indies when they 
planned to move the capital from Batavia, now Jakarta, because of the city's 
cool weather and beautiful panoramas.

A team of building designers, led by retired Col. V.L. Slors and including 
J. Berger, a noted young architect from Delft Engineering School in the 
Netherlands, was assigned for the construction, which would also house 14 
ministries and government offices of the Dutch colonial administration.

The ground-breaking was carried out on July 27, 1920, by Johana Catherine 
Coops, the eldest daughter of B. Coops, then the mayor of Bandung.

Rectangularly shaped, the building stretches from north to the south, 
perpendicular to Mount Tangkuban Parahu. It required some 2,000 construction 
workers from the villages all around Bandung. Among them, there were some 
150 specialists in engraving Chinese gravestones from Guangzhou, China.

According to two noted Dutch architects, Cor Pashier and Jan Wittenberg, the 
architectural design of the building, which was the result of an experiment 
made by J. Berger and his colleagues, adopted the Indo-European 
architectural style, a combination of oriental and occidental elements 
supported by an advanced construction technique from Europe.

Another Dutch master in architecture, Dr. H.P. Berlage, who visited Bandung 
in April 1923, said that the building was a great architectural work, 
particularly its west wing, which reminded him of the Italian architectural 
style during the Renaissance period.

The windows have a Spanish/Moorish style, while the stratified tower at the 
center of the building is reminiscent of the roof of a Balinese temple or 
Thai pagoda. The building features local characteristics in its shingled 
roof and the skewered-meat-shaped structure.

The structure is shaped like a skewer with six rose-apple-like pieces of 
meat as a reminder that the construction of the building cost 6 million 
guilders, remitted six times.

The tower is another unique part of the building. To get there one must 
climb ten flights of stairs, each of which has 10 steps. In 1998, however, 
the West Java provincial administration provided Gedung Sate with an 
elevator that can take people speedily to its tower.

The stairs leading to the tower are found on the fourth floor, but are 
rather hidden, like a crevice, measuring less than one meter wide.

Up in the tower, is a museum containing a diorama depicting the development 
of West Java. Also there is a wide screen for viewing a film on the progress 
made by the province. On the upper floor are chairs arranged as if they were 
in a caf‚.

Six telescopes are mounted on the terrace of the tower, which can be reached 
by climbing the staircase outside.

Aside from the telescopes, there is also a giant siren speaker. In the past, 
the siren was sounded to alert the residents of Bandung of any imminent 
danger. Today, it is sounded every Aug. 17 commemorate Indonesia's 
Declaration of Independence.

Budget markup

The construction of Gedung Sate, which was a giant labor-intensive project 
in those days, relied on conventional building methods and used local 
materials.

As the walls were made of thousands of blocks, measuring 1 x 1 x 2 meters 
each and transported from Arcamanik and Mount Manglayang -- the rock quarry 
areas east of Bandung. The walls are still very strong, even today.

The massive blocks, reportedly, were carried by cable cars down from the 
hilly areas to the north of Bandung to be later transported by truck to the 
building site.

Indeed, the construction process was quite difficult and took four years to 
complete. Unfortunately, the economic malaise at the time disrupted the 
plans to move the seat of the Dutch colonial administration from Batavia to 
Bandung.

Upon the completion of its construction, the building was used by the public 
works department. During the struggle for Independence from 1945 to 1949, 
the building was also a battle arena. Seven young Indonesian republicans 
lost their lives in an attempt to defend the building from an attack by the 
Gurkha regiment in the British Army on Dec. 3, 1945.

A monument in memory of these seven fallen heroes was not put up until Dec. 
3, 1970, at the instruction of the public works minister.

Aside from being used as the office of the West Java provincial 
administration, it also has a vast park and is well-maintained. The park is 
often visited by families on weekends. Many newlyweds and tourists take 
their photographs with the building as the backdrop.

As an historical building, Gedung Sate may fare better than other historical 
buildings in Bandung, especially those owned privately, many of which have 
been demolished because the owners could not afford the maintenance costs.

The West Java provincial administration forks out Rp 2 billion a year from 
the regional budget for the maintenance of Gedung Sate.

This allocation, Daud said, is only enough for the maintenance of the 
building like repainting, cleaning services and partitioning for new rooms.

"Nothing has been changed about the building. We have only done partitioning 
to add more rooms or alter old ones," Daud said.

Unfortunately, the budget allocated for the maintenance was embezzled in 
2004. Late that year, the West Java provincial legislative assembly, whose 
office is located on the left wing, protested about the markup of the Rp 700 
million budget approved to over Rp 2.2 billion, purportedly for the 
construction of four security guard posts and a fence around the building 
that was supposed to be too formidable for protesters to bring down.

http://www.thejakartapost.com/detailfeatures.asp?fileid=20050715.Q01&irec=0




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