Jakarta ‘slum tourism’ treads between aid and exploitation

By: Loic Vennin
Agence France-Presse 
8:27 pm | Thursday, May 31st, 2012 

JAKARTA—”I decided to experience the real Jakarta,” said a tourist, stepping 
gingerly between puddles of putrid water and a scurrying rat in a scene that 
would never make a postcard.

Rohaizad Abu Bakar, 28, a bank employee from Singapore, said he could not 
believe his eyes as he wandered around the slum in the Indonesian capital, a 
jumble of hundreds of shacks, some less than a meter from a railway line.

Nearby, a small girl picked up a discarded juice bottle in search of a sip 
while a man wearing tattered shorts lay slumped on a dirty old mattress. Only a 
blue plastic tarpaulin offered shelter from tropical downpours.

So-called “poverty tourism” is on the rise in Jakarta.

Organizers say it raises awareness and brings aid to the destitute of the city, 
but accusations of exploitation are never far away and critics say poverty 
should not be a tourist attraction.

A few hundred families cram into the slum in the Tanah Abang neighborhood, 
minutes from gleaming shopping malls where the likes of Gucci and Louis Vuitton 
compete to lure the newly minted beneficiaries of Indonesia’s economic miracle.

Abu Bakar opted against the picturesque landscapes of other parts of the 
country to instead join a “Jakarta Hidden Tours” trip, which aims to show 
visitors the squalid conditions of the nation’s poor.

“Tourists stay in their ghetto. We show what is really Jakarta,” said Ronny 
Poluan, 59, an Indonesian documentary maker who created the non-profit 
organization in 2008.

Recent years have seen “poverty tourism” mushroom globally, from the favelas of 
Brazil to the slums of Dharavi in Mumbai, popularized by the film “Slumdog 
Millionaire.”

“We have about 10 tours per month, with two to four tourists each time. More 
and more people are coming, some now even come just for my tour,” Poluan said.

“I’ve had tourists from as far away as Washington. They’re not only 
backpackers, but also businessmen, bankers,” he added before being cut short by 
shouting reverberating around the slum.

“Kereta! Kereta!” (“A train, a train”) cried mothers rushing to grab children 
playing on the track as a roaring locomotive approached, whipping up clouds of 
dust and garbage as it surged toward the flimsy-looking shacks.

The train recently claimed the life of one little girl who died as she ran 
after her cat.

Poverty as a tourist attraction 

The slum dwellers, like half of Indonesia, live on less than $2 per day. Each 
tourist pays 500,000 rupiah ($54) to visit, with half of that going to the tour 
company, and the rest funding doctor visits, microfinance projects or community 
projects such as school building.

“I don’t give cash. I pay the doctors directly, for example,” said Poluan.

But that does not reassure some critics.

“I’m against slums being turned into tourist spots,” Wardah Hafidz, an activist 
with the Urban Poor Consortium, told AFP. “It’s not about shame. People should 
not be exhibited like monkeys in the zoo.

“What residents get from these tours, in cash or whatever form, only strips 
them of their dignity and self-respect, turning them into mere beggars.

“They not only become dependent on handouts, but come to expect them. It 
doesn’t help them to believe they are capable of standing on their own two feet 
or getting them out of the spiral of poverty,” she added.

Nonetheless, residents say they look forward to the daily influx of foreigners 
witnessing their lifestyles.

“I like that foreigners want to know about us. It’s good they want to know 
about us,” said Djoko, a father in his 50s, as he removed labels from a pile of 
glass and plastic bottles before selling them for recycling.

Tourists deny voyeurism, instead saying that what they witness inspires them to 
action.

“If I had not seen it, I would not have done anything about it,” said Caroline 
Bourget.

A teacher at Jakarta’s French school, she is now discussing setting up a mobile 
school in the slum to give disadvantaged children a better chance in life.

“Here we are at the heart of reality,” she said.

http://business.inquirer.net/62515/jaka ... ploitation 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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