http://www.iht.com/articles/2006/08/01/news/aceh.php


Indonesian province embraces Islamic law 

By JANE PERLEZ The New York Times 
TUESDAY, AUGUST 1, 2006 


BANDA ACEH, Indonesia Across this most religious of Indonesia's provinces, 
brown uniformed policemen in black wagons enforce Shariah, or Islamic law. They 
haul unmarried couples into precincts and arrest people for drinking or 
gambling. Increasingly, many of the cases are pushed to the ultimate 
conclusion, public canings at mosques in front of pumped-up crowds.

In mid-July, a 27-year-old man sentenced to 40 lashes fainted on the seventh 
stroke of a rattan cane from a hooded man in the yard of a mosque here in the 
provincial capital.

The caning was televised nationally, with an announcer reporting that the man, 
who had been arrested for drinking at a beachside stall, would receive the 
remainder of his punishment once he had recovered.

Battered by the Asian tsunami 19 months ago, Aceh is undergoing a profound 
transformation that is likely to have considerable impact on the nature of 
Islam in Indonesia, the most populous Muslim country.

For centuries Indonesia has been known for the open-minded, sometimes 
freewheeling, interpretation of its dominant religion. That is changing as 
moderate Muslims find themselves under siege from more orthodox proponents, and 
as the moderates are hesitant to push back.

Aceh, where Islam has always been more rigorously observed, is the first of 
Indonesia's 33 provinces to put Shariah law onto the books. Special Shariah 
courts established to mete out punishments have been operating for a year.

Now, some of Indonesia's other provincial governments are looking to Aceh as a 
model for how they might more formalize Shariah laws already on the books. More 
than a score of townships across Indonesia have introduced Shariah-like laws 
that fall short of the precision of the religious laws here.

The 1945 Indonesian Constitution is generally considered a secular document. 
But in a signal of the current mood in Indonesia, leading politicians have 
recently refrained from criticizing Aceh's new laws. Indeed, the laws were 
written in 2003, and had been made possible by the national government as a 
special gesture to the province, which for years suffered through separatist 
unrest.

In Aceh itself, though, the way the new laws are being enforced has aroused 
some opposition, especially among women. Often, they say, an arrest by 
overeager Shariah police officers, many of them men in their 20's and 30's, 
seems orchestrated as a punishment unto itself.

When three activists, all women, chatting in the seclusion of a hotel corridor 
after a long day of meetings, were shoved into an open police van in February 
for not wearing their head scarves, the police paraded them before a throng of 
men.

"We believed we were in our personal space, and they broke into our personal 
space," said Nursyamsiah, 41, the head of the Acehnese Women's Empowerment 
Group, who recounted sitting on a sofa in the hotel where they had been staying 
after a United Nations-sponsored seminar on women's rights.

About 11 p.m. the Shariah police burst in, demanding to know why they were in a 
hotel at such an hour. "They made sure people were laughing and booing at us as 
they took us to the mayor's office," she said.

In a ruling that has enraged women's groups, an elementary school teacher, a 
married woman in her 30's, was sentenced on July 21 to caning for working in 
the headquarters of a political party on a Sunday afternoon at the same time as 
the party leader, who was not her husband.

"They were two people working in different rooms. How can she get punished?" 
asked Fatimahsyam, the head of the women's branch of the legal aid society in 
Lhoksemawe, Aceh's second biggest city.

It is not easy, the women's groups say, to question the Shariah laws for fear 
of being considered an unfaithful Muslim. The women's groups are careful not to 
criticize the existence of the laws themselves, but rather the method of 
enforcement.

Curiously, Nursyamsiah, who was arrested here, is a civil servant assigned to 
the Shariah offices in Lhangsia, in southern Aceh. There she has watched the 
introduction of the new laws up close. A new force of 75 Shariah police 
officers - 70 men, 5 women - is being trained, she said.

The system of Shariah laws, she said, represents a form of politics as usual, a 
way of fattening the payroll.

"By applying Shariah law, the governor, the political elites, get more money 
for police, more courts," she said. "We've opened a new section of government 
to look after Shariah."

What also rankled her, she said, was the fact that the laws on drinking, 
gambling and relations between men and women tended to affect poor people the 
most. "Why," she asked, "have they not introduced the Shariah laws on 
corruption? Stealing in Islam is a bigger sin than these small sins."

At the municipal office of the Shariah police in Banda Aceh, Nasir Illyas, the 
director of administration, defended the style of punishment, proudly showing 
off the nearly three-foot-long rattan rod - with a curved handle for a better 
grip - that he keeps near his desk.

The rules are fair, he said as he itemized the following particulars from a 
manual: a minimum of about two and half feet between the person who canes and 
the defendant; the cane is applied from the left side; onlookers are at least 
10 yards away.

Illyas, who sits under a portrait of the Indonesian president, Susilo Bambang 
Yudhoyono, said the Shariah laws were the "wish" of the people. The laws should 
be extended to non-Muslims, too, he said, a move that would place Aceh in the 
same ranks as Saudi Arabia.

Such a broad application, now under discussion among Aceh's officials, could 
have ramifications for the economic future here. Foreign aid workers, 
overseeing billions of dollars of international reconstruction aid, say they 
are finding the province less welcoming.

In mid-July, an Italian aid worker was arrested by the Shariah police for being 
with an Acehnese woman late at night. It was the second arrest of a foreign aid 
worker and an Acehnese person of the opposite sex in the last several months.

For some, the enforcement of Shariah laws is upsetting the ideal of a new Aceh 
as an open society.

The director of the agency responsible for rebuilding the tsunami-ravaged 
province, Kuntoro Mangkusubroto, is a graduate of Stanford University, and a 
well-traveled government official from the capital, Jakarta. But to remind 
visitors that Aceh was once a bustling entrepĂ´t, he keeps a 
turn-of-the-20th-century photograph of Sabang port, the main entry point to 
Aceh, on his wall.

It would be impolitic for Kuntoro to speak out against the Shariah laws, but 
the message of the photo, and a remark to a visitor that Sabang once rivaled 
Hong Kong, is clear.




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