Quick (ish) update
i set about moving the vertical guide back in line and re drilling the hole for the 4mm csk screw http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC01900.jpg result? ok but the glass still did not reach full height because it hit the back of the m4 nut before it could reach a stop, so now i had an extra hole in the hockey stick but still glass that did not line up .... and this was without modifying the hockey stick to allow the glass to protrude through by 1-2mm for the most up to date fitting arrangement, this would be impossible since the plate that the bolt goes though was well and truly in the way..... so i had a brain wave, if the original mounting for the M4 csk screw is too far forwards http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC01902.jpg then i need to move it back, so i spot welded on a strip of 10mm x 2mm steel strip to the other side of the vertical support with the intention of using the original M4 csk screw hole which was now further forward and out the way on account of moving the upright back by about 10mm (hope your keeping up?) http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC01904.jpg http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC01903.jpg then marked through and bent the strip and drilled and tapped it to M4 to keep the whole fixing as small as possible and well and truly out the way from the door glass http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC01905.jpg so now the screw is back in its original hole and I've got an extra hole where i don't want it, but at least the glass goes up fully to where it needs to on the front edge since moving the top mounting point of the upright guide has tilted the glass back to the correct angle http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC01906.jpg only other issue, while trying to make both doors symmetrical i found the bottom hole for the upright (with the 150mm threaded rod M8) was way out of line with the passenger side, the passenger side glass moves freely whereas the drivers side has always struggled so I'm basing my dimensions on the passenger side and the build manual, i found them to be about 20-30mm out both up side to side, so i had to re-drill the hole and refit the threaded rod, but it wouldn't fit since it hit the electric window cable, so the mounting of the motor was measured and found to be waaay out so that also needed moving http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC01899.jpg to allow the vertical guide fixing to be put in place, all this has taken 2 weeks and I've still not fitted the hood ive also been able / forced to upgrade the original M4 csk screw with an M5 because the original one was countersunk too far down leaving little fiberglass left to take the load (I did fill behind with filler and stainless as you mention Jim), mind you this works well and will hold slightly better on account of the fact that the head is fractionally bigger, i also took the opportunity to drill and tap the spot welded metal tag to M4 slightly further down to help support the upright and prevent twist to hold it further still. http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC01918.jpg just got to fill the other hole now, though if im lucky the glass should pop through here in time with the mod? ive also braced the lower fixing threaded stud, i didn't like the way the M8 stud flapped about in the hole on the pop riveted plate at the base of the vertical guide whose hole was around 9.6mm, bit too slack for my liking and i was aware that there was some flex in the fixing long before i started this, so i upgraded to M10 stud by drilling the lower bracket to a snug fit and re-drilling the door inner panel to suit, this left a few horrid looking holes and the door panel also being slightly warped / not perfectly flat with load on it so i made a brace behind out of 10mm x 50mm alloy plate bolted behind like so http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/DSC01914.jpg this straightens the inner panel out no problem and prevents any twist of the M10 stud to always ensure the guide sits correct, today i have to adjust the rear fixing ..... On Aug 24, 8:45 pm, jin <jinmys...@btinternet.com> wrote: > Cheers Jim, you’re a star > > After 4 hours tonight ive had to move the vertical guide about ¾ inch > further back at the top, which in turn led to the electric window > motor being repositioned as well, but only to line up with the > passenger side, if the builder had made them equal rather than just so > it wouldn’t have been necessary > > The net result of tonight’s going on have seen all the above and the > need to re-mitre the vertical guide top, the csk screw has been > replaced and re-drilled and this has left me with door glass that now > sits further (and more level) up at the front edge than it did before > and more equal to the passenger side, however the glass now contacts > the csk screws nut, only just and if I force it up a bit more (I came > close to loosing my rag so a bit of brute force is nothing LOL) I can > get the glass to pass the nut just behind and the glass sits spot on, > but the glass’s front edge corner is bearing against the nut, ive a > horrible feeling I may have to re-drill it slightly further forwards > and bend the little wiggly bit further back to move the nut further > back, however this will leave the hockey stick looking like Swiss > cheese > > I may bong stainless on inside as you suggest then fill the holes with > black gel coat, unless anyone can think of a way to decrease the nut > protrusion without resorting to more drilling > > Still on the upside it’s keeping me busy : ) > > Cheers > > On Aug 24, 8:45 am, "Jim Hearne" <j...@quantums.info> wrote: > > > > > Hi Jin, > > There were supplied undrilled and longer than required. > > There have been at least 3 variations of where the hocky stick meets the > > glass and soft top. > > The last and most leak free version has the glass going through a slot cut > > in the end of the hockey stick and bedding into the grooved rubber seal on > > the door pillar. > > Be careful if you do this as the hockey stick can crack between the CSK > > screw hole and the end of the slot. > > Best thing is to bond a small piece of stainless steel sheet inside the > > hockey stick with filler to spread the load, redrill the hole through that > > as well. > > > Getting the door insides done on the 2+2 was the worst job on the kit, i > > actually gave up on my quantum build for 6 months or more after i spent > > several weekends trying to get everything to line up. > > > Best advice is make everything adjustable that you can, and expect to have > > to slot the holes for the lower guide fixings a lot on the door inner > > panels. > > When i finished moving everything around i scribed round the big washers on > > the guide fixings onto the door inner panel, then filled in all the slots > > i'd made with fibreglass filler. > > Then line the washer up onto the scribe marks and redrill just the one hole > > required. > > > Jim > > > -------------------------------------------------- > > From: "jin" <jinmys...@btinternet.com> > > Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 7:17 AM > > To: "Quantum Owners Group" <quantumowners@googlegroups.com> > > Subject: [Quantum Owners] not so jolly "hockey sticks" > > > > Hi guys > > > Quick question (ish), > > > Were the front "hockey sticks" glass surrounds sections supplied from > > > Quantum undrilled for the M4 csk screw that secures them to the > > > vertical glass guide? > > > > Basically the one on my driver s side is 15mm further forwards than > > > the passenger side resulting in the glass sitting lower at the front > > > edge in relation to the passenger side which has lead to some funny > > > looking creases in the soft top fabric trying to close the gap - and > > > deep breath > > > > cheers for any info, i just want to eliminate any other potential > > > factors as to why these 2 vertical supports are out of line other than > > > the original builder just drilling the holes wrong > > > > Cheers > > > > -- > > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > > "Quantum Owners Group" group. > > > To post to this group, send email to quantumowners@googlegroups.com > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > > > quantumowners-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > > > For more options, visit this group at > > >http://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en > > > > IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As > > > Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the > > > Quantum Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners > > > Club or in the preparation of the above information shall have any > > > liability to any person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or > > > damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the > > > instructions contained within this or related message(s).- Hide quoted > > > text - > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Quantum Owners Group" group. To post to this group, send email to quantumowners@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to quantumowners-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or related message(s).
