The reason (partly) is because the tops of my door glass scrape the hood edge flap as i open and close the door, and I've yet to mod the hockey stick sections to allow the door glass the sit flush to the hockey stick section which will mean the door glass is even further pushed up toward the roof side rebate edge,
i debated for quite some time as to how to go about rectifying the situation,i could either do the sensible thing and get (yet another) roof that hopefully fits properly (mine does seem to overhang at the sides more than others) or try something else... no brainer really :) i initially drew up a system of DPDT micro switches - 4 per door (one on handle to trigger glass drop - one on glass runner to switch off the drop, one one the door jamb to trigger the glass raise, one on the glass runner to cut the glass raise, set up to drop the glass down 1/4" as you open the door then raise it as you shut it (diagram available if anyone wants to try) but i felt the hood edge does not always sit right anyway especially if you've just put the roof up from being folded, so the glass risks trapping the hood edge without giving enough time for me to manipulate the hood to seal over the glass top, also for what is predominantly a fair weather car, the glass would be going up and down like a yo yo 90% of the time without proper reason when the roof is down, so onto plan B I bought a 4ch 12v transmitter and receiver, these are readily available in maplins and ebay, each channel is capable of switching 20A. i drew up and checked over the schematic diagram made up the loom with all the necessary parts, i chose 30A relays to do the actual switching http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/2012%20quantum/IMG_20120908_134110.jpg http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/2012%20quantum/IMG_20120908_134121.jpg The 4 30A relays are changeover relays with 5 terminals, each is set to NO (so trigger inputs from the console switches wont interfere with the relays) and so that NO is +ve and NC is -ve, as each is switched it makes the circuit through to the other side of the motor (2 relays per side), then pressing the other button flips the whole polarity over to reverse the direction, if you accidentally press all or up and down at the same time the motor become electrically brakes to -ve, which means the fuse doesn't blow and there is no short circuit, the receiver and the main relays are fused from the main feed into the car from my kill switch, the finger switches on the console only operate with the ignition, i did consider DPDT relays but this would cause a direct short if the 2 buttons for 1 window were pressed at the same time, as it happens this works a treat click link for video http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/2012%20quantum/?action=view¤t=VID_20120909_140029.mp4 the range is pretty good too http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o192/jindal/2012%20quantum/?action=view¤t=VID_20120909_140230.mp4 so far I've stood about 4 car lengths away and it still works, ill try the max range when i next take the car out. the good thing now is i can make sure the hood side edge sits right as the glass raises from out side the car, oh and the pose value is pretty sweet too ;D -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Quantum Owners Group" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or related message(s).
