Mark,

 

Making the assumption that your carburettor is not full of crud that can
occasionally partially block a jet, the half-full filter symptom is
certainly a possibility with regards to what could be responsible for your
problem.  Filters need to be full of fuel at all times and to achieve this
without auto-bleeds this means that they should be vertical with the fuel
flowing upwards.  The cheap filter type is fine as those which I have
encountered seem to be a standard type that is available through most motor
factors and Halfords.  They certainly appear to have a high enough flow
capacity to cope with both engine supply and recirculation fuel with an
injection system.

 

If your filter is on the suction side of the pump then it is more difficult
to initially get the filter to self-bleed but time and vibration help a lot
if the filter is vertical.  It is better with regard to self-bleeding to
have the filter on the pressure side of the pump but only if the fuel pump
has its own strainer - which most do.  Experience suggests that if there is
air in a filter on the suction side of a lift pump then the likelihood of
fuel being pumped by the lift pump is greatly reduced.  On my Beauford I now
have filters either side of the low pressure pump into the remote swirl pot
and both self-bleed in a few miles on the road - we have enough rough roads
around here to provide the vibration!

 

A point of information - it is fuel vapour that is in question here, not
water vapour.  Fuel vapour can be increased by the effects of rising
temperature and decreasing pressure as both change the partial pressure and
thus increase the rate of vaporisation.  Whilst petrol is a highly volatile
fuel in its own right, the fact that a carburettor works is a) down to
Bernoulli's equation that explains why the venturi provides a lower pressure
due to the high air velocity where the venturi contracts, which then pulls
the fuel through the jets and b) the low pressure helps to vaporise the
fuel.  On injection systems the fuel is injected onto the hot inlet valves
whence it vaporises before mixing with the incoming air once the valve
opens. 

 

I cannot say that getting a filter to self-bleed will definitely solve your
problems but it would be a very good start, particularly if it only means
repositioning the filter in a vertical position -  note the recommended flow
direction usually shown by a cast in arrow on the casing, the flow going in
around the outside of the filter matrix such that when there is a lot of
crud in the filter it will be visible.  I had this problem back in the 60's
when "Know-it-all self" put an in-line filter on my car and had exactly this
effect of occasional stopping which miraculously stopped when the filter was
removed but at that stage I did not match vapour lock and self-bleeding to
the equation.  Age and experience does eventually become worthwhile

 

Good luck!

 

Hamish

 

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: 03 October 2013 18:59
To: [email protected]
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: Car Stopping after ~ 1 Hour

 

So Hamish, just so I understand, your saying that any 'air' space is a
possible point for water vapour to form when the system gets hot? Makes
sense to me if so.

I have a 'cheap' plastic fuel filter just before the fuel pump on my cvh
carb 2+2. This is only about half full of fuel at any time (that I can
remember), even with the revs up. Do I need to try a better fuel filter?
I've never had a problem using these types of filter in the past.

 

Thanks

Mark

.

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