It’s very strange, i’ve just been through the wiring diagrams for every Ford i
can think of up to around 2000 and none have a 3 pin inertia switch.
Also, anything into the Mk4 Fiesta, Ka, Focus, Mondeo age uses Purple/Orange
wires for both sides of the inertia switch.
Using Black/Red for the fuel pump circuit stopped after the Mk3 Fiesta.
Yet, that inertia switch is a post 2000 part number.
Maybe it’s from a Mk2 KA but i though they were Fiat based,
That aside, it’s going to be the 2 thick wires that are the switch for the fuel
pump, just ignore the thin wire.
Jim
From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2022 11:56 AM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch
As I mentioned I found an identical inertia switch to the one fitted and
ordered it on the basis that the loom must have been modded for it. I will of
course drop it in and see if it works, but i seriously doubt it will because
nothing seems to be connected.
So on the assumption that I have to wire it up, does anyone have access to
details of how the Ka unit should be wired?
Julian
On 2022-09-26 12:59, Jim Hearne wrote:
Alarms normally break 2 circuits, one is usually the starter and the other is
usually the ignition feed at the ignition switch because it's easy to access.
If you are fitting an alarm properly you should break something harder to
bypass (breaking the ignition circuit can just be bypassed by connecting a wire
between the battery + and the ignition coil), the supply to the fuel pump
would be a suitable circuit.
The Mk3.5 1.6 SI loom is good for upgrading to a 2.0 Zetec as it's about the
only Fiesta loom that is compatible with the Mondeo ECU pinout.
You may have to resort to pulling the dash to see exactly whats going on.
Jim
From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 12:50 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch
OK, so the chances are the loom is Mk3. The engine is a 2l Mondeo, the lights
are the Morette mod and the loom is a shambles, I've found three extra fuses in
the cabin and several more in the engine bay.
I do also have an alarm - fitted by a prior owner. I was wondering about that
being the culprit, but it works by not allowing the car to be turned over.
However finding that both leads to and from the sensor are apparently not
connected suggests it is not the alarm cutting power to the sensor.
That leaves the possibility that the alarm is faulty and is interrupting the
pump power feed which doesn't go through the sensor.
More investigation required clearly. Or I fit the new impact sensor and route
an entirely new power feed.
On 2022-09-26 12:36, Jim Hearne wrote:
I was just wondering if somebody has grafted in a Mk4 loom, though why you
would do that unless you were fitting a Mk4 dash i don't know.
There are various fuses and relays added to the side of the main fusebox
depending on the options and spec of the car.
Jim
From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 12:31 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch
A thought. I have noticed that the fuse box/relay holder is different from
the Haynes photo. It does not have the three fuses to the right of the relay
tray (ie hidden from view unless the tray is unhitched and dropped down, it
only has the extension on the left. I assumed this was merely that Haynes
simply showed one model with and ignored the variant without.
I don't know if that may be relevant.
On 2022-09-26 12:17, Jim Hearne wrote:
>>The part incidentally is F2AB-9341-AA.
That part number is too new to have come from the donor car.
Has this car got a Mk4 or Mk5 Fiesta dash fitted ?
Jim
From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 12:10 PM
To: quantumowners@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch
Hi
Further investigation is proving tricky. Having removed the connector and
so gained access to the loom wiring I can find no link from the fuse (F19) to
the connector and no link from the connector to the now cut feed wire to the
pump (there being a temporary positive feed to the pump to keep it going). Both
should exist. None of the three wires connect to ground or indicate power at
any time.
The only explanation I can think of is that the unit was problematic and
it has been short circuited and it is that connection which has failed. My
problem of course is I have no idea where that might be. So the hunt will go on.
Incidentally the unit is certainly the impact sensor. I managed to read
the part number and found one on e-bay and despite it being from a Ka it is
identical - except mine does not have the red button, just a hole where the red
button should be! So perhaps that explains the disconnection theory. It broke
so it was dispensed with. Anyway, I have the e-bay unit on order.
The part incidentally is F2AB-9341-AA.
Now I just have to find the bodge.
Regards and thanks for all the help
On 2022-09-26 09:12, jul...@cityaudioservices.com wrote:
Thanks for the additional information, very useful.
On 2022-09-25 23:20, list...@liberator-systems.co.uk wrote:
Inertia switches are readily available from breakers, Ebay etc. Most
are 3 pin but often connector only uses 2 of the pins.
The one I fitted in my saloon came from a Ford Fusion, Fiesta or
similar (the type with yellow top).
If you get one from breakers best to get complete with male connector
plug and short section of wiring harness - this make it easy to wire into
existing loom. Failing that you need to make connector plug - easy enough -
most are 3 way AMP connector.
In my setup I also installed a bypass switch and a dashboard warning
led to show if inertia switch has been triggered (this requires 3rd wire
connection).
John
On Sunday, 25 September 2022 at 16:33:07 UTC+1 julian wrote:
Hi
I have found an air bag sensor (though there are none in the car of
course) and close by another potential suspect - see attached. It's the right
sort of size but has three connections where the manual says two, although one
appears at least to be the right colour code. Also it has no reset button.
However what it does have at the top is a cylinder which might once have been
the housing for a plunger.
I haven't yet tried testing anything like circuit tracing because
the plastic of the connector look easy to break. If it is the right unit, I
will attempt to remove it and see if it can be reset.
Alternatively do you know if a replacement might be obtained?
Julian
On 2022-09-23 14:33, Jim Hearne wrote:
It's bigger than you might think, maybe 50 x 40 x 30 with the red
button on the top.
Jim
From: jul...@cityaudioservices.com
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2022 2:30 PM
To: quantu...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch
All
I'm assuming from what I can see on the web it's likely to be a
small flattish black box.
Fingers crossed I can find it.
Thanks as ever for the help
On 2022-09-23 14:09, susanandmartin wrote:
As Steve said, near the door (A) pillar is a common place. In a
Mondeo (company car) a work colleague had a flat tyre and changed it, then the
vehicle wouldn't start – you can imagine he was pretty exasperated. It turned
out the inertia switch was in the boot near where he dropped the punctured
tyre/wheel!
Martin Scott
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: 'Steve Kodź' via Quantum Owners Group
Sent: 23 September 2022 13:41
To: quantu...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Quantum Owners] H4 electrics - inertia switch
Julian,
Not sure about a standard location, but I think the wiring
would naturally position this in the passenger foot well area. Mine was
attached to the chassis door pillar in the passenger foot well.
Regards,
Steve
On 23/09/2022 13:38, jul...@cityaudioservices.com wrote:
Hi
My H4 cut out unexpectedly at the MoT garage after being
driven into the brake test equipment which involved the car being grounded!
Looking at the circuit diagram there are several potential reasons why this
happened, most of which I know how to diagnose and where to look. But one
possible potential problem is the impact sensor which is shown in the Haynes
manual.
Does anyone know if these are usually refitted in an H4 and
if so is there a 'standard' location? It might help me locate it without having
to dismantle the entire vehicle. If anyone has a photo of the actual unit I'm
looking for, that would also help.
Thanks
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