I’ve been saddened to think my descendants may never eat real beef.

While there are many other reasons to move to plant-based proteins, I am glad 
there may be a sustainable way to keep cows around.

E

A 2016 review in Nature Climate Change found that carbon sequestration through 
grazing management had the greatest potential among several mitigation 
strategies to reduce the carbon footprint of animal agriculture 

A carbon-neutral burger? It’s not impossible.
https://www.popsci.com/carbon-neutral-beef-grass/
(via Instapaper)

Beef has become one of the central villains of the climate crisis. Many 
environmentalists limit their cow consumption or eat entirely from lower levels 
of the food chain. But though it’s true that global figures on beef’s carbon 
hoofprint are worrisome, they perhaps also gloss over the complex system that 
these cows are a part of. There are many, many ways of producing burgers and 
steaks—and some ranchers argue cattle can actually be a force for good. In 
fact, cattle might play a surprising role in mitigating climate change. If done 
right, grazing can heal grasslands and enable them to stow away more carbon 
from the atmosphere, even becoming carbon-negative systems.

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At Ranney Ranch in central New Mexico, the cattle herd moves between about 33 
smaller pastures within a larger 18,000-acre ranch on rocky mesa grassland. The 
cows graze down one pasture at a time for a period of a few days to three weeks 
in what’s called adaptive multi-paddock (AMP) grazing. Then, the ranchers move 
the ruminants to the next patch, and the just-grazed area has at least six 
months to rest. In the 16 years since she adopted this grazing plan, Nancy 
Ranney says she’s increased the number of cattle while at the same time 
building soil carbon and increasing the biodiversity of native grasses 
sprouting across the ranch. “Not only is it a viable alternative,” she says, 
“it’s a necessary management practice if you want to keep grasslands healthy 
and you want to have healthy soils.”

Cattle production is inseparable from grasslands. Most beef cows—both grass- 
and grain-fed—start their lives on a pasture, explains Ermias Kebreab, a 
professor of animal science at the University of California, Davis. After about 
a year to a year and a half, cows are either sold to a feedlot or continue 
grazing until slaughter. Feedlot cows are fed a high-calorie, often 
grain-based, diet on which they fatten quickly. Finishing cows on grass takes 
about three to six months longer, since grass is less calorie-dense.

Often during the pasture stage, cattle are free to roam about entire ranches, 
nibbling on whatever patch of grass they like, whenever they want. But 
especially with large numbers of animals, this continuous grazing can erode the 
grassland ecosystem. Uninterrupted trampling can reduce a once-vibrant prairie 
to patches of scraggly, weedy plants and bare, compacted soil. And with that 
erosion and loss of plants goes the ability of the soil to store carbon in 
organic matter, a key function of grassy regions.

This bleak picture might lead you to question beef’s sustainability. But the 
grazer-grassland relationship is not inherently destructive; native ruminants 
and plants evolved together, and they have a mutually beneficial relationship 
in natural ecosystems. Millions of bison once roamed the United States, and 
they instinctively moved between pastures, giving plants and soil a chance to 
recover.

If done carefully, Kebreab says livestock grazing can mimic this natural 
function. Additionally, he notes, “the thing that people might not consider is 
that a lot of these cattle occupy land that’s considered to be marginal—you 
can’t really do anything apart from growing grass.” So, when considering the 
amount of land used to produce beef, which many environmentalists cite as a 
negative impact, it’s important to realize that that grazing land can support 
way more than cows. As long as the operation takes places on a natural 
rangeland—as opposed to the destructive practice of chopping down a forest to 
produce pasture—there’s potential to foster a healthy ecosystem and store 
carbon in addition to producing beef.


Cows can destroy grasslands—but they can also help them Conner Baker
Rotational grazing, including the AMP approach Ranney uses, seeks to mimic 
those historic herds of bison and other grazers that once trod the land, 
creating a microcosm of this ecological relationship. In it, a ranch is divided 
with fencing to create many smaller paddocks. The herd will chow down on one 
small area for as little as a few hours before ranchers move them to a new 
spot. Then, the mowed-down spot gets a long rest, usually at least a couple 
months. “This adaptive multi-paddock grazing is a way to manage [cattle] in a 
way that emulates large native herds of wildlife,” says Steven Apfelbaum, an 
ecological consultant with Applied Ecological Services, Inc.

Even just a few cattle, if grazing uniformly and nonstop, can degrade a 
grassland. That’s because they’ll preferentially feed on certain tasty plants, 
and thus eliminate these grasses. High-speed rotational grazing avoids this by 
keeping cows on a patch just for a short time. Then, the long rest allows the 
grasses to grow back—all while enjoying the extra nutrients from cow patties.

Many ranchers say this approach leads to more productive grasses, which in turn 
support more food for cows and even wildlife like birds. Those grasses also 
feed a bustling microbial community and add organic matter into the earth, 
improving soil qualities like its ability to hold and infiltrate water. Cooper 
Hurst, who runs the Hunt Hill Cattle Company in Mississippi with his wife 
Katie, says that switching to restorative ranching practices including AMP 
grazing has ended their need for synthetic fertilizers and fostered a diverse 
community of forage plants, providing nutritious feed for the cattle—which he 
says has lowered healthcare costs for the animals, too.

Managed grazing can transform a degraded area, a net carbon source, into a net 
carbon sink, according to Richard Teague, a range ecologist at Texas A&M 
University. Based on data he collected “across the fence” between Texas 
ranches, he calculated that AMP grazing could store a ton of carbon per hectare 
of land per year in a site that previously was continuously grazed. For wetter 
climates where plants grow faster, that rate is likely even higher.

Another study found similar results for the Southern Great Plains region. In a 
life cycle assessment, it considered all the emissions the cows generate as 
well as the carbon that the grassland could sequester. While AMP emissions 
resulted in higher greenhouse gas emissions per cow than continuous grazing, 
those emissions were far outweighed by the carbon stored. Converting a field 
from heavy, continuous grazing to AMP grazing led to a negative net carbon 
emissions of just over 2000 kilograms per year. According to the assessment, 
that effect lasts for decades as the ranch slowly approaches capacity in carbon 
storage.

Now, Teague and a team of researchers from around the country are studying the 
soils, biodiversity, and profits in side-by-side pairs of ranches in Kentucky, 
Tennessee, and Alabama. He’s reluctant to share preliminary findings, which he 
plans to release as part of a film, but says they’re getting “some pretty 
decent results.” Apfelbaum, a member of the team, does describe one surprising 
insight: “We believe we’re measuring in real-time that the methane being 
emitted by the cattle is being sequestered by methanotrophs, being eaten up by 
methane-consuming bacteria in soil very quickly … And that’s not what we’re 
measuring in the conventionally grazed, degraded grasslands.”

Right now, each burger patty is estimated to produce 3.7 kilograms of CO2 
equivalents in warming potential—far more than other sources of meat or 
vegetable protein. But there’s huge potential for curbing those emissions with 
advances like managed grazing.

While cows produce methane, a potent greenhouse gas, through their digestion, a 
well-managed grassland is still a carbon-neutral system. That’s because methane 
gets converted back to CO2 after about 10 to 12 years, and it can then be 
reabsorbed by plants, which are then eaten by cattle, and so on, forming a 
closed-loop of carbon, says Kebreab. “As long as you don’t increase the number 
of animals in a certain area, then you will keep that carbon balance,” he says. 
“You’re not adding carbon into the atmosphere.”

In a 2018 study in Agricultural Systems, the authors did life cycle assessments 
for grass-fed beef on AMP grazing and conventional, grain-finished beef. While 
feedlot-produced beef had less emissions over its life cycle (because the cows 
fatten up faster, releasing less methane), AMP-grazed beef emissions were 
totally offset by soil carbon sequestration.

In an assessment prepared for White Oak Pastures in Georgia, which uses AMP 
grazing, environmental consultants found that beef from the ranch was actually 
carbon-negative. While a kilogram of conventional beef produced 33 kilograms of 
emissions, the net emissions from White Oak Pastures were -3.5 kilograms per 
kilogram of beef. Previous estimates of beef’s carbon footprint had failed to 
include grassland carbon storage, therefore missing “the full carbon story for 
regenerative agriculture systems,” write the authors.

More and more ranchers are becoming like White Oak Pastures. Rotational grazing 
(a broad term that includes AMP and other methods of moving cattle about the 
land) is on the rise. “I think that rotational grazing is becoming the gold 
standard now, making sure that [grazing] leaves enough time for the soil to 
recover,” says Kebreab. In a survey of California and Wyoming ranchers, two 
thirds reported using rotational grazing. While in many ways our agricultural 
system incentivizes efficiency over sustainability, preserving the land is 
still in ranchers best interest. “There are some really smart ranchers out 
there who’ve been doing great stuff for a long time,” says Derek Scasta, an 
herbivore interactions ecologist at the University of Wyoming. “We have some 
ranches in Wyoming in phenomenal condition because we have 30 years of really 
good grazing management—there’s rest for pastures, [and] they’re adjusting 
adaptively as conditions are changing.”

Still, Scasta adds that intensive rotation methods aren’t feasible for 
everyone. For one, many ranchers in the West are moving their cattle between 
private and public land, and timing of that might not be compatible with AMP 
grazing. Also, moving cattle everyday between fenced areas takes more labor, 
demanding additional time and money from ranchers.

Moreover, making a wholesale transition to rotationally-grazed, grass-finished 
beef may not be feasible if we want to continue producing the same amount. Even 
though the AMP method maintains better forage quality and thus may lead to 
faster-growing cattle than animals finished on a continuous grazing system, it 
still uses more land than grain-finished livestock. That’s because grass 
finishing simply requires the cattle to be on the pasture longer, lengthening 
the turnover time per area of land compared to grain-finished cattle.

There are compromises, though. Ranney in New Mexico sells her cattle for 
slaughter right after weaning, around seven months. Though the cows are 
smaller, she’s had no trouble selling the beef. And Hurst in Mississippi moves 
most of his cows to a feedlot to finish on a grain-based diet.

The potential of grazing to mitigate our climate impact is still unknown, but 
it could be sizable. A 2016 review in Nature Climate Change found that carbon 
sequestration through grazing management had the greatest potential among 
several mitigation strategies to reduce the carbon footprint of animal 
agriculture (here’s the specific figure).


The Hunt Hill Cattle Company in all its greenness. Cooper Hurst
Importantly, the carbon-sucking potential of a piece of land depends on its 
starting condition. If a grassland is already thriving, adding managed grazing 
won’t change much, says Scasta. “It depends on the starting point for reach 
individual pasture, each individual ranch, to see how they might move the 
needle on organic matter.”

But given how degraded the world’s grasslands are, there’s a lot of room to 
improve carbon stores through grazing management. Right now, as the IPCC 
reports, a quarter of the Earth’s ice-free surface faces degradation. All that 
land is a source of carbon rather than a sink. But grasslands make up about a 
quarter of the Earth’s land surface, and store tons of carbon in their 
extensive roots and soil. One study found that in California, grasslands are 
more reliable carbon sinks than forests because they’re more resilient to the 
rising temperatures, drought, and wildfires brought on by climate change; the 
results could be similar for other semi-arid regions. With the U.S. comprising 
19 percent of the world’s beef production, and much of that beef being produced 
on continuously-grazed lands, there’s to be a lot of potential to build up soil 
carbon stores. It’s certainly not going to make much of a dent if we continue 
to burn fossil fuels, but it could at least reduce our burgers’ footprints.

Unfortunately, as a consumer making a smarter choice for the planet isn’t as 
simple as choosing grass-fed, because those cattle may well have been raised on 
continuously-grazed pasture that doesn’t necessarily provide ecosystem and 
carbon-sequestering benefits. Instead, because those cattle are hanging out and 
burping methane for more time than grain-fed animals, grass-fed can even be 
worse for the environment, says Kebreab.

But if you want to support healthy grasslands, it’s still possible with a 
little more research. The Audubon, for example, has a “bird-friendly” 
certification, which indicates that the beef is from a pasture that supports 
bird habitat. Birds are a good indicator for the health of an ecosystem, so a 
grassland that makes birds happy probably also has productive grasses and 
carbon-rich soil.

While beef production as a whole isn’t doing the planet a favor, managed 
grazing proponents say we can’t give up on cattle. “We have huge, huge volumes 
of carbon we can put back in the soil by improving soil health,” says 
Apfelbaum. “So cattle can be viewed as a tool, whether you eat meat or not—we 
need the relationships that have evolved for millions of years between grazing 
animals, native plants, and soil microbes in grasslands.”



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