Regarding this discussion, one of my hub criteria was that it was well sealed against water intrusion. Maybe it's something a lost cause?
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/bicycles-faq/part4/section-2.html Perhaps the question should be not which is best sealed, but rather that which is easier to re-lubricate? On Wed, May 7, 2014 at 8:20 AM, Ginz <theg...@gmail.com> wrote: > Regarding M737 hubs, this is a good resource for researching older MTB > parts -- especially shimano and suntour. Whenever I want to see if parts > are compatable, what configurations they came in or what sizes were > available, i just search for the model number. Sometimes, there are even > catalog scans that show you the whole parts group for the era. > > http://mombat.org/Shimano.htm#1996 > > > > On Tuesday, May 6, 2014 6:53:57 PM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote: > >> I saw one of those M737 hubs NOS on fleabay and also some used ones. >> They look nice and high-polish shiny. I assume they are 8/9/10 >> compatible, yes? Info was not available on the Shimano techdocs website :( >> I think they purge anything document related that's more than around 3 or >> 4 generations old. >> >> >> >> >> On Tue, May 6, 2014 at 5:14 PM, Bill Lindsay <tape...@gmail.com> wrote: >> >>> For rear hubs, if I want to go the best I can possibly get for >>> UBER-cheap, I like to go used Shimano M737. $25-$30 used. Tremendous >>> value, and they come with one of the best QR skewers of all time. >>> >>> If I'm sparing no expense, White Industries. I have sworn off aluminum >>> cassette bodies forever. >>> >>> On Monday, May 5, 2014 8:14:15 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote: >>> >>>> Pricing out parts for my build, the cost difference in hubs between the >>>> bling hubs and say Shimano hubs are pretty noticable. A Chris King, Phil >>>> Wood, et. al, are quite expensive, $350ish in the case of the Chris King, >>>> $400+ in the case of the Phil. >>>> >>>> On the other hand, I found Tiagra 4600 rear hubs for as little as >>>> $24.45 online, and 105 5700 rear hubs for $43.45. Now we all know that >>>> Shimano hubs are loose ball bearing hubs, but in practice what is the >>>> functional deficiency if the bearing preload is properly adjusted? Some >>>> people seem to think the 105 hub is better sealed than the Tiagra and if so >>>> would be worth $19 to me. But if not...? Rivendell sells 105 5500 hubs on >>>> their site, so they must not be that bad. >>>> >>>> To give some more background, I have a Chris King hub on a frame I was >>>> planning on selling. The plan was to re-use the CK hub on my new build. >>>> Different wheel size, so I would need to start over with new rims and >>>> spokes either way. But if I could sell the CK for $200 or more, and >>>> replace it with say a 105 or even a Deore hub, that would help me get my >>>> build together faster. The new frame is spaced 132.5 so can take 130 or >>>> 135. >>>> >>>> I also don't love the fact that the CK hub needs to be taken apart and >>>> re-lubed yearly. I had an issue before with the lube drying out and >>>> causing the hub to be sticky on transition from pedaling to coasting when >>>> my service interval was too long. That being said, the polished silver CK >>>> is a bit more aesthetically pleasing than the dull silver Shimano hubs. >>>> >>>> My main criteria is that the hub is sealed well against water intrusion >>>> and rolls down the road easily. Low maintenance is a plus. A difference >>>> in weight of 100 grams is not meaningful to me. Bling is nice, but my >>>> priority is function over form. It does need to be silver, of course. >>>> >>>> Replacing the CK with a mid-priced cartridge bearing hub might be >>>> another option. The Velo Orange hubs look pretty nice. I'm guessing they >>>> would probably would require less maintenance than the CK hubs and if the >>>> cartridge bearings are of good quality they would probably be well sealed. >>>> >>>> -Jim >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! >>>> >>> -- >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. >>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. >>> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. >>> >>> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. >>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >>> >> >> >> >> -- >> Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! >> > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. 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