Geoff,

The bolt (might need a button head for clearance if drive side) and nut
properly tightened will hold rack to braze-on with clamping force. It won't
budge over bumps or cause any problems. Lots of older bikes have unthreaded
braze-ons meant to be used exactly like this.

I'd go this route in the OP's place. I do this on perfectly fine rack
mounts anyway. Belt and suspenders approach.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or
On Dec 24, 2014 7:01 AM, "Geoffrey" <ring...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I think using a nylock, putting a screw all the way through and using that
> as a "sleeve" to contain the screw will lead to problems down the road.  If
> that screw is in there, slamming around and you bounce down the road, it's
> a shock on each bump.  The cheapest fix IMO that would be really secure
> would be to find a 6mm tap and just go oversized on those and call it a
> day.  My two cents.
>
> On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 12:27:07 AM UTC-6, cyclot...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>>
>> Both answers are good ones. In fact, chase the threads, and then use a
>> longer bolt w/ a nylock!
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 9:58 PM, lungimsam <john1...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> > Without a pic I am guessing you mean the threaded cylinder brazed to
>> the seat stay?
>> > Maybe just use a nylock nut with a new bolt? Is that ok to use for a
>> cylinder like that?
>> >
>> > --
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>>
>>
>> --
>> Cheers,
>> David
>>
>> Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace
>>
>> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>>
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