Please please pretty please, check if you can tighten it with the cable 
hanger removed.  I'm going to have nightmares if you don't check that.  

Regarding knurling.  This is the tool that any decent shop should have:

<http://1mg.me/?w=300&h=300&filename=JS0115.jpg&f=BTI>

If they have that tool, the job takes 30 seconds.  If their standard shop 
rate is $12,000 per hour, then $100 is about right.  :-)


On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 12:51:27 PM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
>
> Bill et al. -
> The seatpost is only just baaaaarely too loose.  Honestly,  I think a tin 
> can shim might be too thick to fit in there, but the difference between the 
> post outer diameter and the tube inner diameter is enough to make the post 
> gradually slide down the tube as I ride.  
> So: first thing is a stop by the friendly LBS on my way home, which has 
> some friction paste in the back for conditions just like this (also 
> recommended by Bryan).  If that doesn't work, then I may mail the post back 
> to Riv for a good knurling (I spoke to a local machine shop, which quoted 
> me about $100 to knurl the post; at that rate, it'd be cheaper to buy a 
> Thomson post, instead).
> Yes, it's a bit irritating to have a problem like this on what seems 
> otherwise to be a masterpiece of a bike.  However, as a former parent of 
> two teenagers, I've learned to be understanding; these things happen.
> Kevin
>
> On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 3:41:25 PM UTC-4, Tom Harrop wrote:
>>
>> Actually, not meaning to muddy the waters here, but both of the Nitto 
>> binder-bolt mounted cable hangers that Riv sells interfered with seatpost 
>> clamping on my Bombadil. I fixed it by switching to Surly's cable hanger. 
>> Could also just use a smaller-diameter bolt. Is it worth a try to go around 
>> the block a few times with no rear brake (and no cable hanger) to see if 
>> that makes a difference?
>>
>

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