I've done this a couple of times and I have had good success with pure
beeswax.   You can buy 1 lb. quantities of pure beeswax at any chain
craft-store.    I melt the wax in a double boiler, then brush it on
the thing i'm waxing with a paint brush.   Of course, it does not
absorb right away, and clumps up and looks crazy-   so the most
important step is to then heat up the thing you're waxing.     I have
used an oven in our kitchen to my girlfriend's horror.    But if you
use a flat pan like a cookie pan, and the article you are waxing is of
manageable size, you won't get wax everywhere.   Another option is a
good high-power hair dryer or heat-gun.    The first coupla times I
did it, I used linseed oil to help thin the molten wax, but that tends
to make it smell a *lot*.   So now I don't do that, and have found
that it's not necessary.   You just need lots of heat (though not too
hot, about 160 degrees Fahrenheit works well), and the article's
fibers will begin to absorb the wax.

In summary:

1) brush-on molten beeswax
2) cook article you are waxing at about 160 degrees
3) repeat (2-3 times)


It should take about a half hour to completely permeate the fabric,
give or take and depending on how big the bag/coat you are waxing is.

It's fun and it smells awesome, like flowers.   Seriously.


On Dec 2, 3:51 pm, erik jensen <bicyclen...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I'm looking for the word on waxing my canvas equipment properly. So far,
> I've only waxed the wheel-facing sides of my baggins panniers. This was a
> few months ago, but I wasn't satisfied with the result. Several months on it
> hasn't seemed to absorb properly (still waxy in parts) and it really
> darkened the fabric significantly.
>
> How do you wax your cotton in a manner that results in a similar outcome to
> the original thing. Also, what's the best product to use? I'd be waxing a
> few baggins bags, a nigel smythe, and *maybe* an acorn rando.
>
> Thanks,
>
> erik
> --
> berkeley, ca
> bikenoir.blogspot.com

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