Drew, I agree completely with Steve's suggestion.  No matter which 
derailler you use, don't use the small ring with the small cogs.

I run 9 spd friction on all my bikes, my wife's bikes and our tandem, which 
has miles of cable, and I have very little problem with ghost shifting 
while using either Campy or Shimano deraillers.  In my experience ghost 
shifting increases directly with the length of the cage. The very long mt 
bike deraillers are the most prone, and short cage "racing" deraillers the 
least given to ghost shifting.  So I always try to set up a bike with the 
shortest cage that will work.  To do that I use all 9 cogs (occasionally 
but more often 7) with the middle ring, 4/5 outside cogs with the big ring 
and rarely more than 3 with the inner ring.  This set up has three 
advantages - it reduces the need for a longer cage, it reduces the distance 
between gears when shifting between the outer & middle ring, and it gives 
the best chain line.  I set the chain so that it will barely reach the big 
ring, big cog combination, just in case I absent mindedly go there.  I also 
use good chains and avoid over stretching them, since I have found that 
cheap and worn chains are more prone to ghost shifting.  (My "old" chains 
get recycled to the timing chain on the tandem).

So, you may not need a new derailler at all, but that Suntour Cyclone 
certainly doesn't owe you anything.  There is also a lesson in that.  A 
good derailler will last a long time, so it's probably a false economy to 
try to save a few dollars up front.  I have the Ultegra 6700 on my Ram and 
it is absolutely the best shifting bike I have ever owned, including 
Ultegra SIS!  

Michael
Gathering stuff together for an imminent week of Spring riding in the NC 
Outer Banks.

On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 9:46:45 PM UTC-4, drew wrote:
>
> *let me set this up. *
>
> the first bike i ever really built was this 1984 trek 420 mixte for my 
> wife (then girlfriend of 1 year). i stripped it down, had it powdercoated 
> and put it back together with og parts and was very proud of myself. since 
> then, ive built 5 or 6 more bikes up and slowly started noticing all the 
> haphazard work that i had done on the 420. So, over time, i ended up 
> acquiring parts for a 650b conversion, new cockpit, new crank, etc (thanks 
> list). here it is. 
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y1hvjWoDdmY/VuoHgdscKRI/AAAAAAAAAmM/AJrAcfl-Ovo8fTAA4Aq57nqaTwk6EMYSw/s1600/IMG_0260.JPG>
>
> its pretty much good to go, minus this happening when in granny + lower 
> gears (not a common ratio, im aware)
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EVr5zqGZdgs/VuoIZ3fElPI/AAAAAAAAAmU/8wVsxDiEHd4YOM7gpfH_fLOka_EMe1Haw/s1600/IMG_0261.JPG>
>
> i assume this means i need a longer cage derailleur? chain is/was measured 
> according to the sheldon method. 
>
>
> *question 2:*
>
> i have an altus rd on my sam hillborne that is not performing optimally as 
> of late, and im thinking about exchanging it for something nicer. i like 
> the idea of the shadow derailleurs, but dont fully comprehend them and 
> their compatibility. running 8 speed, friction. what new rear derailleurs 
> do people like?
>
>
> *question 3:*
>
> since the trek 420, my wife got a clem (which she adores). this puts the 
> 420 on long car-rack ride/dangerous lock up location/friend borrowing duty. 
> would putting the sam's altus on the trek make sense to solve that 
> cage/chain rub? she is a very light duty and duration rider, so the ghost 
> shifts under pressure and weird noises wont happen or bother her. 
>
>
> *in summary:*
>
> -what rear derailleur should i put on my 8 speed, frictioned sam?
>
> -is that chain/derailleur contact on the trek solved by a longer cage 
> derailleur?
>
> -if yes, would the altus be a good option?
>
>
>
> Thanks!!
>  
>
>
>
>
>

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