Very unfortunate to hear and glad you're ok. That definitely makes me nervous. When you say fork crown strut/tang, are you referring to the 2 struts that connect to the top of the fork crown like here <http://oceanaircycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/10.28-Marks-Rack-WP-1140800.jpg> or the single (flimsier) tange that connects to the centerpull brake bolt like this <https://www.pinterest.com/pin/21814379422044040/>.
Are using fork crown bolts any more stable than the single centerpull bolt? On Sunday, June 19, 2016 at 2:45:23 PM UTC-7, Northof49ncold wrote: > > *I just had a Nitto M18 fork crown strut/tang break while I was riding* > with a 15lb dry bag on the rig and it wasn't pretty. Luckily I was only > going about 2mph or it would've been lights out, likely permanently. The > strut was originally bent to align with the fork crown hole when installed > and obviously flexed under the weight load. It did take about 1200 miles > for it to happen but when it did -- KAPOWWW! -- it was instantaneous and > sent the load flying in front of the front wheel (I had the stays supported > on the fork dropout eyelets so the rack pivoted all the way forward). I > went down so fast I never knew what hit me. I shudder to think what would > have happened if I'd been sailing downhill at 30mph at the time!! Full > disclosure: I bought the M18 from Ben's Cycle who blissfully give the load > rating as 8kg = 18lbs, hence my conservative load of 15lbs over bumpy > terrain. *Nitto's 2015 catalog, however, gives the maximum payload as 5 > (FIVE) kg = 11lbs. *So i was actually running the rack four pounds over > its limit all those miles. Did I trust that strut/tang from the start? > Nope. It looked like a weak way to connect the rack but I reckoned it would > give me some warning before failing. I would definitely use straps wrapped > on each side of the handlebar stem as a safety back-up in future. Instead, > I'm going to be using a VO porteur rack which is rated at 50lbs (rather > generous payload which should be halved using stock connections). But guess > what? That rack also uses that flimsy, good-for-nothing fork crown > strut/tang in a 3-point connection. Absolute junk! The way to get around > that major failing is to shell out for the Surly Rear Rack Upper Kit which > can be used on each side of the fork as a stabilizer and safety catch: > http://surlybikes.com/parts/small_parts/rear_rack_upper_kit. If you don't > have fork eyelets, simply use p-clamps for the fork connection instead. > After what happened to me, I'll likely also use handlebar straps. Be > careful out there and don't believe everything you read about recommended > weight loads or failure rates! > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
