I've potholed a few rims, and the main damage to them is the brake track. You /can/ get the bend out (one of my potholed rims is a 650b ztr355, which can't be replaced for love or money now that Stans has drunk deep from the disc brake well, so you can be assured that I fixed that wagon and still have the wheelset around. Sadly, the bead is damaged enough so that I don't dare run Confreries tubeless on it anymore) but if you don't it's really not very good for rim braking anymore. With disc brakes, just shrug and keep riding.
And about those brake pads... I still not-so-fondly recall the set of new V-O squeal-less pads I took out on a paved-road 200k one February and returned with the front pads worn down to the metal carrier. My single disc braked machine, on the other hand, has had BB5s on it for ~3k miles now and is still using the original pads in the rear (I swapped the front pads when they started getting thin after ~2k miles, but the rear pads keep telling me that I was being overly pessimistic about that) which is the same milage ballpark as all of the rim brake pads I've used in the 50k miles I've ridden over the past few years. Disc brakes aren't that new anymore, either, and a lot of the really dumb designs have already been caught and weeded out. There's not much reason for Riv to switch over to them ($300 for a rim swap every now and then is not much compared to the cost of a fully kitted-out machine) unless Grant decides to start designing & selling full-carbon racing MTBs. -david parsons On Saturday, June 3, 2017 at 12:24:50 PM UTC-7, Garth wrote: > > If I am going to compare costs between this and that, it has to be the > total cost of ownership. So sure, rims and pads may wear down and require > replacement, but a wheel of disc brakes is not immune to the same and/or > it's own issues. They are still relatively new so long term costs are often > overlooked and/or incalculable. Any rim can still crack or fail for > infinite reasons. Disc brake pad lifespan, is it as good as rim pads ? > Compare the costs of replacing each type of pads also. Also the initial > cost of the disc brake system itself is factored. And of course, "stuff > happens" that no one can predict, and so can make such comparisons > unreliable at best. So I say just ride what is ridden and there is not > need to justify it to anyone. > > > > > On Saturday, June 3, 2017 at 2:40:58 PM UTC-4, Orc wrote: >> >> >> >> On Saturday, June 3, 2017 at 9:50:41 AM UTC-7, Grant @ Rivendell wrote: >>> >>> I'm probably becoming a predictable bore on disc brakes, but still and >>> for the record, except for the few conditions where it's an obvious benefit >>> to get the brake away from the tire (mudglop and grit), the rim IS a disc, >>> and being bigger in diameter, it's more powerful and more effective. Yes, >>> it can become a wobbly braking surface if you trash your rim, >>> >> >> I think that's the actual selling point for disc brakes; it's cheaper to >> replace a rotor than it is to replace a rim. (Not so much so in 700c, but >> in boutique sizes like 650b rims are becoming eye-poppingly expensive and >> if you venture away from the Velocity offerings there's not certainty that >> you'll be able to replace them when they wear down.) >> >> -david parsons >> > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
