OK, I went out for a 25-mile road/MUP/gravel trail ride this morning on the 
dirt drop Clem. 

I have no complaints about braking power with the non-aero levers plus Avid 
V-brakes. It DOES take more pull of the lever to get the "I have to stop 
immediately" level of brake force, but it does indeed get there. And I 
guess that means it's easily modulated. It's certainly a LOT more powerful 
than the reverse brake levers and Silver long-reach calipers on my commuter 
bike - that's very much a "speed reducer" setup, and not a "stopper" setup. 
As far as the Clem + dirt drop bar layout, it seems to work. The top of the 
bar gives a more-upright position than the old (long-reach) bullmoose bar, 
while the drops are significantly more aggressive and low/forward, but not 
excessively. I found it easier to control the bike over gravel with the 
dirt drop bar than the bullmoose - it felt a lot less like fighting wheel 
flop (counter-steering) and more like pointing where I wanted to go.  Not 
sure how I'd fare with a "standard" 90-110mm stem, but this is working OK 
so far.

After a few rides on them, I feel like the Schwalbe Big Ones (650Bx2.35) 
are just too much of a good thing. They're plush and comfortable and supple 
and fast-rolling, sure, but they're just too huge and I'm having trouble 
adapting to the steering geometry that results. Additionally, they puncture 
really, really easily - even the "SnakeSkin" version. Not sure what I'll 
try on the Clem next - Thunder Burts are not much smaller, but they do have 
the edge knobs to hopefully slide around less on loose dirt. Or maybe the 
Compass 650Bx48mm? 

/Jeremy

On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 1:09:35 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Old school non-areo levers do seem to pull a lot of cable so you may be 
> ok. In fact, you may have found the first brakes those things actually work 
> on: Dia-Compe non-aero levers with single-pivot sidepulls or centerpulls 
> are what can best be described as "speed reducers" ;-)

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