Thanks Bill. Your suggestion in #3 is precisely what I have done. I've removed the lockring many times and reinstalled, but never with a torque wrench. I've always just tightened it about a 'scosh' more than snug and have never had issues.
Cheers. John On Thursday, November 15, 2018 at 12:06:20 AM UTC+5:45, Bill Lindsay wrote: > > I have three thoughts on this: > > 1. The recommended torque rating for a cassette lockring is typically 40 > N-m. For those who don't know what that means, that is solidly in the > "Really freaking tight" regime. Like as tight as crank bolts. In my > opinion, that torque rating for a cassette lockring is absurd. Cassette > cogs slide onto a spline. The top one is only half-engaged with a spline. > The job of the lockring is to keep the cogset on the spline and to not > allow the cogs to be loose enough to wiggle. In my opinion, cassette > lockrings need not be tightened much farther than 'snug'. I've never > torque wrenched a cassette lockring but my guess is I'm in the 10 N-m range > on my bikes. > > 2. If your cassette lockring has been installed to 40 N-m, I doubt you > will be able to remove a cassette lockring with that Stein tool, no matter > what part of the dropout you try to brace the tool against. > > 3. Whenever I've prepped my bike for a tour, if I'm carrying a compact > tool like the Stein, I use that tool to install the lockring, so I know I > can use that tool to remove the lockring. I'd remove the lockring with a > 'normal' lockring tool/chainwhip, and then install the lockring with an > allen key in the Stein tool. Just get it snug. Then you'll know you can > remove it easily with that same tool when you need to do so. > > Bill 'setting my own torque ratings since 1982' Lindsay > El Cerrito, CA > > On Tuesday, November 13, 2018 at 11:29:49 PM UTC-8, John Rinker wrote: >> >> Good afternoon, >> >> I'm wondering if anyone has experience with using the Stein >> 'hypercracker' Shimano cassette remover on their Riv frames. In particular, >> I concerned about where the locking device (mini-stud) would connect with >> the dropout- right on a braze-on- when using the tool to remove the >> lock-ring on the cassette. According to Stein's instructions, one is not >> supposed to let the mini-stud connect with the derailleur hanger and so >> recommends the the back of the dropout. Unfortunately (fortunately in most >> cases!), Riv's have a braze-on right there. Seems to me that it would pop >> that braze-on right off. Seems to me the derailleur hanger would be much >> stronger. >> >> [image: DSCN9461.jpg] >> These tools are meant for emergency situations only when one is far from >> a bike shop or their own whip and lockring tool. >> >> Cheers, John >> > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
