I don't dislike threadless headsets. In fact, I have several bikes with 'em. But one feature that have found to be a bit more annoying than with the old threaded "quill" stems is the fact that they come in a variety of different lengths and angles. Used to be, when you went to set up your bike's bars with a quill stem you could figure out how far you wanted the "reach" to be, usually by placing your elbow against the nose of the saddle and then measuring the distance to the end of your fingers, and then buying the proper length stem so that the top of the bars would just fit to that measurement. This distance could vary a bit, of course, depending on how much higher or lower you set the stem below the saddle.
With these threadless jobs you can start with the same measurement but then have to make tricky guesstimates to try to figure you what stem angle and length gets the bars to the place where you want them. It just seems like a bit more trouble. On Sunday, April 14, 2019 at 1:23:49 PM UTC-5, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY wrote: > > The top Allen bolt only does it's job (setting your bearing load) when the > stem bolts are loose. If they're tight (the stem bolts on the side) the top > bolt can do nothing. Fact is, you don't really need that top bolt and cap. > It's not a bad thing to have, but I used to faintly tighten the stem bolts > and tap the stem to taste before tightening up all the way, I could then > gaze through my steer tube at my tread passing by as I rode along (not > recommended George, watch out for that tree btw) > -Kai -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
