I have one of the prototype Silver hubs and I'm pretty sure the production ones 
have the same internals. I've had mine open a few times and it's pretty 
straightforward. You don't even necessarily have to remove the cassette.

-The freehub body is held in place by the drive side axle end cap, which 
threads onto the axle.
-You can remove either end cap by inserting 5mm allen wrenches into both ends 
of the axle and holding one steady while turning the other counter clockwise. 
However, it's kind of a crapshoot which end cap loosens first. If the non drive 
starts turning, unscrew that one and remove it. The axle itself then has a 
fitting for a 10mm allen which can be used to hold the axle while you unscrew 
the other end cap.
-Once you have removed the end cap, you can slide the freehub body straight off 
the axle. Make sure you have the wheel on its side with the drive side up so 
you don't lose any parts. The axle is captured between the bearings in the main 
hub shell and will stay in place.
-This will expose the pawl mechanism. The hubs are somewhat unique in that the 
drive ring is on the freehub body and the pawls are contained in the hub shell 
-usually it's the other way round. Take a minute or two to grok how the pawls 
and springs go together, and then you can slide each pawl and spring out to 
clean and lube them. If you want to quiet things down you might put a little 
lube on the drive ring where the pawls run over it (see my commentary below).
-Reassemble everything just as it came apart. IIRC there's a spacer that goes 
on the axle between the freehub body and hub shell, make sure that's there. If 
the freehub body doesn't drop right into place when you slide it onto the axle, 
slowly rotate counter clockwise until it drops down into the pawls.
-thread the axle ends back on and tighten them against each other. The bearings 
aren't adjustable so it's just a matter of threading them on until they stop 
and then torquing them appropriately. If the axle isn't turning smoothly after 
the end caps go on then something is assembled wrong.

Commentary: my silver hub had occasional skipping issues under high pedaling 
loads (think steep single track climbs). The first time I opened it i 
discovered that it was missing one of the pawls springs. I've been unable to 
source replacements, but was able to fabricate my own pawl spring that's been 
working well. However, in my various attempts at addressing the skipping issue 
it was my experience that lubricating the pawl/drive ring interface exacerbated 
the issue, even with all 6 pawls and springs in place. My best results have 
been lightly lubing each pawl so that it rotates freely in its seat in the hub 
shell but leaving its interface with the drive ring dry. Yes, the hub is on the 
loud side but its engagement works well. YMMV.

- Jeremy Till
Sacramento, CA

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