I have one of the prototype Silver hubs and I'm pretty sure the production ones have the same internals. I've had mine open a few times and it's pretty straightforward. You don't even necessarily have to remove the cassette.
-The freehub body is held in place by the drive side axle end cap, which threads onto the axle. -You can remove either end cap by inserting 5mm allen wrenches into both ends of the axle and holding one steady while turning the other counter clockwise. However, it's kind of a crapshoot which end cap loosens first. If the non drive starts turning, unscrew that one and remove it. The axle itself then has a fitting for a 10mm allen which can be used to hold the axle while you unscrew the other end cap. -Once you have removed the end cap, you can slide the freehub body straight off the axle. Make sure you have the wheel on its side with the drive side up so you don't lose any parts. The axle is captured between the bearings in the main hub shell and will stay in place. -This will expose the pawl mechanism. The hubs are somewhat unique in that the drive ring is on the freehub body and the pawls are contained in the hub shell -usually it's the other way round. Take a minute or two to grok how the pawls and springs go together, and then you can slide each pawl and spring out to clean and lube them. If you want to quiet things down you might put a little lube on the drive ring where the pawls run over it (see my commentary below). -Reassemble everything just as it came apart. IIRC there's a spacer that goes on the axle between the freehub body and hub shell, make sure that's there. If the freehub body doesn't drop right into place when you slide it onto the axle, slowly rotate counter clockwise until it drops down into the pawls. -thread the axle ends back on and tighten them against each other. The bearings aren't adjustable so it's just a matter of threading them on until they stop and then torquing them appropriately. If the axle isn't turning smoothly after the end caps go on then something is assembled wrong. Commentary: my silver hub had occasional skipping issues under high pedaling loads (think steep single track climbs). The first time I opened it i discovered that it was missing one of the pawls springs. I've been unable to source replacements, but was able to fabricate my own pawl spring that's been working well. However, in my various attempts at addressing the skipping issue it was my experience that lubricating the pawl/drive ring interface exacerbated the issue, even with all 6 pawls and springs in place. My best results have been lightly lubing each pawl so that it rotates freely in its seat in the hub shell but leaving its interface with the drive ring dry. Yes, the hub is on the loud side but its engagement works well. YMMV. - Jeremy Till Sacramento, CA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/2da16638-4bf4-41ad-9985-c9db603b05fa%40googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
