Hacksawing off the teeth and then filing is best. You can always remount it 
on the crank to the bike and have someone turn the crank while you hold the 
file to the ring, creating a makeshift lathe. Using a dremel or 
benchgrinder means potentially breathing in fine aluminum dust, which is 
not a healthy option.

IanA Alberta Canada
On Saturday, April 10, 2021 at 4:19:21 PM UTC-6 RichS wrote:

> Hello Matthew,
>
> Not sure if this is the most efficient method to create a DIY guard but so 
> far I'm happy with the effort. Here is a work in progress picture  of the 
> guard. It started life as a 50 tooth Shimano 110bcd ring. My big (now 
> middle) ring has 46 teeth. Following is how the modification went:
>
> 1. Used a hacksaw to remove the teeth without getting too close to the 
> line which would become the outer edge of the guard. This went pretty 
> quickly.
> 2. Next, used an oscillating tool for careful removal of the remaining 
> material while avoiding cutting into the new edge and maintaining an even 
> circumference. Slow process!
> 3. Using fine and coarse files along with coarse emery cloth I was able to 
> achieve a smooth edge. 
> 4. Last step: Steel wool and wet sanding with various grades of emery 
> cloth to get a decent finish.
>
> I don't have a bench grinder or dremel but those would certainly be 
> helpful. If you're game I'd say give it a try. I'll post a picture when I 
> reach the finish line.
>
> Best,
> Rich in ATL
>
> On Sat, Apr 10, 2021 at 1:23 PM Matthew P <matthewpe...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Neat Rich! Same here. I'm giving the triple to double conversion a second 
>> thought. I didn't like them before because I thought of them as a crippled 
>> triple. But this thread has changed my mind. The toothless outer ring has 
>> been referred to by multiple names with associated functions: bash guard 
>> and a term implying saves the cuff of your pants. These appeal to me more 
>> than ever, and I  like the idea of the toothless outer ring theoretically 
>> making it near impossible to throw the chain over/off the outermost toothed 
>> ring.
>>
>> So, Rich, a question: did you grind the teeth off a chaniring? Wouldn't 
>> that leave it very short? The one Riv sells seem to be as tall  as the 
>> toothed version. Whats the best DIY?
>>
>> -Matthew
>>
>> On Saturday, April 10, 2021 at 9:14:37 AM UTC-7 RichS wrote:
>>
>>> This thread has been of particular interest and help as I have never 
>>> performed a triple to a double with guard conversion. Currently putting the 
>>> finishing touches on a homemade chain guard (a rewarding effort so far). 
>>> The shared experiences here on derailer setup will be invaluable as I work 
>>> through this installation. 
>>>
>>> Thank you to all!
>>>
>>> Best,
>>> Rich in ATL
>>> On Thursday, April 8, 2021 at 3:45:46 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
>>>> Ben, when you say "stuck" is the chain jamming and stopping the cranks, 
>>>> or is it falling between the rings? If it's just a problem of the chain 
>>>> not 
>>>> moving over far enough to hit the granny, you may be able to adjust the 
>>>> indexing (or reposition the cable in the fixing bolt) to make that shift 
>>>> more solid against the chain. This is hard to explain in word pictures but 
>>>> imagine a friction shift where you kept pushing down on the left bar-end 
>>>> until the chain made it over to the small ring. Her shifter needs to slap 
>>>> that fd cage over hard/far enough to complete the shift. 
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, April 8, 2021 at 12:31:46 PM UTC-7 Ben Miller wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Thanks Joe, 
>>>>>
>>>>> I think I'll try the chain first and see if that fixes it. Hopefully 
>>>>> it will, since my GF is not terribly interested in barcons or DT shifters 
>>>>> (it actually had barcons originally and I replaced those at her request 
>>>>> with the R9).
>>>>>
>>>>> Ben
>>>>> On Wednesday, April 7, 2021 at 1:59:23 PM UTC-7 Ed Carolipio wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I suggest using an FD for a road triple or a mountain triple (instead 
>>>>>> of a road double) with the 38-24 cranks as those are just the middle and 
>>>>>> inner chainrings the FD expects in a triple. The 105 is designed for a 
>>>>>> very 
>>>>>> large outer ring (around 50-ish) in a compact double crankset (43.5mm 
>>>>>> chainline).
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Shimano CX-70 is a popular choice - as Bill points out - and it's 
>>>>>> designed around a 46-30 compact crankset. The new GRX FD would probably 
>>>>>> work as well since that is designed for a 46-29 compact crankset, though 
>>>>>> I 
>>>>>> don't have direct experience with it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I like to run a mountain triple (the venerable Shimano Deore M-591) 
>>>>>> with the 38-24 as well the 34-24 (low-low) and the 42-26 (Sugino XD600 
>>>>>> with 
>>>>>> a chainguard as outer ring) from Riv. I have also used a Shimano Sora 
>>>>>> FD-3030 with good success:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/sora-r3000/FD-R3030-B.html
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> --Ed C.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wednesday, March 31, 2021 at 9:26:47 PM UTC-7 Erik wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I'm working on putting together my shiny new gold Sam H that I 
>>>>>>> picked up from the Rivendell shop today.  Everything was coming 
>>>>>>> together 
>>>>>>> beautifully, until I went to install the front derailleur. It's a 
>>>>>>> Shimano 
>>>>>>> 105-5700 for a 2x set up.  I'm running a Silver Wide/Low double with a 
>>>>>>> 38 / 
>>>>>>> 24.  The cage on the derailed is too long to set it up with the correct 
>>>>>>> spacing between the large chainring / guard and the cage.  It ends up 
>>>>>>> hitting the chain stay when I shift.  
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Does anyone else on here have a similar set up with a wide / low 
>>>>>>> double?  If so, what front derailleur do you use?  For the life of me, 
>>>>>>> I 
>>>>>>> can't figure out a suitable replacement for the 105 and am dreading 
>>>>>>> trying 
>>>>>>> to find one for sale anywhere.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Any thoughts or advice?    
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> -- 
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