If I understand correctly that the problems began iafter february, when you 
had the cassette and chain replaced, I wonder if something was done wrong 
or poorly, or even just different. For instance:  

- Does the chain width (referred to by the number of rear sprockets it is 
intended to work with) match the rest of drivetrain?  Including the 
derailleurs (width of shift cage), chainrings (width of rings and spacing 
between them) and cassette (number of cogs plus same width/spacing concerns 
as with rings).  One of the benefits of friction shifting is that you can 
usually get away with mixing and matching a bit.  For instance, a 9 speed 
chain on rings spaced for an 8 speed era drivetrain, or a 10 speed 
cassette.  Or a narrower 10 speed chain working on an otherwise all-9 speed 
system.  Etc., etc.  But if you're not super comfortable with friction, 
you're going to be better off if everything matches.  

- is there a wobble in the cassette when the wheel is spinning?  Maybe it 
got installed with some dirt behind it, or with the lockring not fully 
secured?

Otherwise, I agree with many of the above suggestions as place to start and 
things to rule out, and that it doesn't strike me as a "shifter" issue at 
all:  Hanger alignment; possibility that you're simply worn out the 
chainrings or rear derailleur.  (The former woul appear as "shart-fin" 
tooth profiles, and the latter would be evidenced by any play in the 
mechanism if you try to wiggle it.)

Lastly,  make sure your drive-side crank arm isn't working loose from the 
bottom bracket spindle.

On Friday, June 9, 2023 at 10:16:31 AM UTC-6 Wesley wrote:

> Caroline,
> If you recently had the chain and cassette replace, then your problems 
> with the chain dropping may be because the chainring is worn. Most 
> chainrings are aluminum, which wears faster than steel cogs. And since the 
> same chainring is used for all riding while the cogs are changed by 
> shifting, the wear is more concentrated on the chainring. Both of these 
> lead to chainrings wiring out faster than cogs, and a worn chainring will 
> not hold the chain securely. This can act in combination with problems 
> others hav suggested here - especially bent detailer hanger and too-slack 
> chain - to drop the chain off the chainring.
> -Wes
>
> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 10:53:07 AM UTC-7 Caroline Golum wrote:
>
>> Thanks everyone! I had the chain + cassette replaced in February, both 
>> new parts, so I'm assuming they both have plenty of life left. 
>>
>> The last mechanic I spoke with assured me the limits on my derailleur 
>> were good. FWIW I've had the same Shimano 105 rear derailleur since I built 
>> the bike in 2009. 
>>
>> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:42:45 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> Did the derailleur service include verification that the derailleur 
>>> hanger is straight?
>>>
>>> Agree that it is unlikely to be a shifter issue.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:34:54 PM UTC-4 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> That sounds like an issue with chain retention and not the shifter. 
>>>> Clutch RD ? New rings ? New chain ?
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 10:32 AM Caroline Golum <carolin...@gmail.com> 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps 
>>>>> coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've 
>>>>> had 
>>>>> the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc. 
>>>>>
>>>>> Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an 
>>>>> 8/9spd in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2 
>>>>> <https://www.rivbike.com/products/kjalgjoihjga44451>.  
>>>>>
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>>>>> .
>>>>>
>>>>

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