Reaming a 28.6 OD seat tube for a 27.2 ID seatpost is no big deal. 27.2 is 
by far the most common and frequent seatpost size for all 28.6 OD steel 
frames and been that way since I can remember, at least the early 80's. 
It's not going to compromise anything or put the rider or the frame in any 
danger. My '83 Stumpjumper took a 26.0 post, talk about overkill, as it was 
a straight gauge tubing tank of a frame. 

If I bought a frame from Rive that wasn't to spec the first thing I'd do is 
call them. It's neither normal or acceptable. These things are supposed to 
be taken care of at the time of the frame build, but it's also Riv's 
responsibility to see that the shop is doing their job as contracted. Since 
Riv is point of contact with the buyer, it's up to them to make it right. 
That every frame is not checked is unbelievable, especially considering the 
cost of the frames. Even most local bike shops will do that as part of 
basic complimentary frame prep on new frames sold if requested.  I had a BB 
issue with my custom Franklin in 1999 for which the builder offered to send 
me his BB threading tool since I didn't have one. While I opted to take it 
to a shop in Pittsburgh that I could do it myself at, I surely appreciated 
the gesture. 

Kalloy posts are really cheap. They don't use very beefy bolts either. They 
could make the radius style post Riv often includes to be a whole lot more 
slip resistant if the top of the post upon which the clamp sanwich rests 
was bead blasted rather than slick. I have two vintage single bolt Campy 
seatposts from the 80's. The Nuovo Record(NR) has the top of the post bead 
blasted, the Super Record(SR) is polished. Guess which one slips, and which 
one doesn't. NR for the win !  There's supposedly friction pastes around 
for carbon fiber, but I don't know if they're applicable to aluminum or 
not. If they are, I'd surely try some under the clamp sandwich, on the top 
part of the post upon which it rests. Then it can't rotate so easy. 



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