I agree with Patrick that your Veloce FD didn't like the vintage-ish cranks you're using. The rear shifting (I remember you're using Silver friction bar-ends) should be fine with that 8-speed cassette and an 8- or 9-speed chain.
1x would probably work for the kind of gearing you like but yes, you'd be swapping everything and most of that stuff is waaaay uglier than your Campy bits. I don't know enough about all that to give recommendations. On Wednesday, September 6, 2023 at 9:13:20 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote: > Catharina: Without seeing your drivetrain more clearly I can't offer > anything of great insight, but the following FWIW: > > 1. The technology required by 2X8 drivetrains is so mature now that they > are almost as durable and reliable as single speeds, at least if you are > using friction shifting. If properly set up, just about any FD can shift > from big to small ring without throwing the chain over either ring. I see > that your bike has a Shimano cassette and Veloce RD; I take it that you > shift in friction? > > And I surmise that your FD broke because it got caught by the right > crankarm while you were pedaling hard? > > Front derailleur setup can be a bit finicky, but it's not rocket science > and I'd take care to have the FD just ~1/4" above the big ring and to play > with the lateral angle of the cage by adjusting the clamp as it rotates > around the seat tube until the cage is perfectly aligned fore-and-aft with > the chain/chainring. Even a wee bit off-angle can cause shifting worries. > All this after getting the proper bb spindle length* and adjusting the > limit screws properly. *The bb spindle length should be chosen for proper > chain line -- chain on big ring straight to #4 cog, chain on small ring > straight to #5 cog -- while giving the minimum sufficient gaps between > chainrings and right chainstay. All this done, any crank from the last 40 > years ought to clear any FD from the last 40 years. > > Unless you are using a modern FD with wide, shaped cage with a 1970s > Record crank? I can't tell from the photo what the crank and FD are, but > the crank looks to be an old one without arm flare ... if so, it might not > clear a modern wide-cage mtb FD even with proper setup and properly sized > bb spindle; in which case -- assuming you don't want to swap the crank for > a modern flared-arm style -- you need a narrow cage FD; any road FD ought > to work fine, especially since you have only 8 cogs in back. > > I would not use bb spindle length to adjust FD cage contact with the crank > arm and I'm surprised that a professional bike shop would do that. Choose > the bb spindle length to put the rings into proper alignment with #4 and #5 > cogs and allow 2-3 mm minimum clearance against the chainstay, and any > modern crank ought to clear any modern (last 40 years) straight cage FD > cage just fine. There are some exceptions where there is not enough gap > between outer/big chainring and inside of right crankarm for modern FD > cages, but AFAIK that has never happened with any Campy FD or any crank, > Campy or otherwise, from the last 50 years. > > 2. Viva Italia! (Not referring to the political party.) My daughter spent > her junior year abroad in Florence and shared many photos and experiences > with me, which I heartily enjoyed. But 8-speed Shimano Dura Ace is pretty > darned pretty! > > On Wed, Sep 6, 2023 at 8:05 PM Catherina Gioino <catheri...@gmail.com> > wrote: > >> Hi RBW group! >> >> My name’s Cat and I posted a few months ago about an earlier iteration of >> the same problem I’m still having: my Roadini has had trouble shifting both >> front and rear since I first acquired it over a year ago. I purchased it >> from the original owner, who had built it up with nice Campy components-- >> some >> pictures of the initial setup and the current configuration are below. >> >> It’s set up 2x8, and at first, the front would barely shift to the small >> ring at all (often not at all), and the chain would pretty frequently jump >> off if I even lightly overshifted. Then, the rear wheel (Velocity A23) >> developed a series of large cracks on the rim. >> >> My partner and his dad (who both have Rivs and got me into this mess, >> haha) tried to fix the problems by first adjusting the limit screws, and >> when that only made things worse and we discovered the cracked rim, we put >> on a Shimano cassette, replaced the wheelset with a Shimano-compatible set >> of A23s, and replaced the chain, on the theory that the original chain was >> too narrow for the original Campy cassette, letting it slip between the >> rings. This marginally helped, but still didn’t solve the issues, so then I >> had my local bike shop put in a wider bottom bracket, because they noticed >> that the front crank was essentially scraping the front derailleur and >> couldn’t be adjusted any further— they suggested the bottom bracket >> replacement. >> >> This didn’t work because on my first real ride post the fixes, (on the >> OCA coming back from the Tappan Zee for that guy on a Homer who waved!) the >> front derailleur cage snapped. I was able to ride home, but now I need to >> at minimum replace my front derailleur, and while I’m at it, would like to >> fix the larger problems— the rear and front shifting. I love my bike, and >> tend to ride through issues, but it would be great to be able to shift >> properly. I’m wondering: >> >> 1) If anyone has any general or specific advice given what I’ve detailed, >> or any questions that might help diagnose the problem >> >> 2) If anyone in New York would be willing to come take a look at it and >> try to help figure out the problem— it could be a fun project, and I’m >> happy to provide refreshments :) >> >> 3) If I do need to switch the entire drivetrain, should I move to a 1x so >> I don’t run into more front derailleur problems? I tend to ride mostly in >> my higher gears anyway, so I could just move to a 1x with a wider-range >> cassette and stick with my 44 in front. I know 1x can come with its own >> issues, but this might be easier >> >> 4) I’m Italian, and so I have a slight but unavoidable aesthetic >> preference for sticking with Campy parts; does anyone have thoughts about >> how I might do this, or should I give up and switch to more standard >> Shimano or SRAM, which won’t look as nice but might function better >> >> Thanks so much for reading and for any help or advice! I’m kind of at a >> loss, and would love to ride my beloved Leo without worrying about whether >> my front derailleur will blow up again. >> >> Cat >> >> [image: IMG_1018.jpg][image: 715737051.jpg] >> >> >> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "RBW Owners Bunch" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. >> To view this discussion on the web visit >> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/26c0b6dd-2e95-44e7-9300-88bbd9ae6580n%40googlegroups.com >> >> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/26c0b6dd-2e95-44e7-9300-88bbd9ae6580n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> >> . >> > > > -- > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Patrick Moore > Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing > services. > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > *When thou didst not, savage,* > > *Know thine own meaning, but wouldst gabble like* > > *A thing most brutish, I endowed thy purposes* > > *With words that made them known.* > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. 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