| Hey Chris - I’ve watched a lot of Neill’s videos. I can ride on the road and take my hands off the bars comfortably. Here the thing, when the saddle is far set back, I can do this, when it’s perfect fore/aft, I can also do this. When it’s too far forward yes I would fall. So this alone only tells you you’re not too far forward. That’s been my experience anyways. But I always try this.
This afternoon I spent adjusting the fore/aft, riding around and tweaking it until it felt good. I ended up pushing it 7mm forward. Still well balanced on the saddle, and pedal stroke fees better. I then swapped the 70mm stem for an 80mm. Feeling better. Now I need a couple rides to confirm. Jason On Apr 28, 2024, at 4:54 PM, Chris Fly <fourf...@gmail.com> wrote:
I think the one thing that fore and aft on a spreadsheet (meaning the nose of the saddle should be xxcm behind the saddle based on xx leg measurement) is how heavy you are from the waist up.. the heavier your torso and/or head is, the further back your saddle will probably have to be to ensure you aren't putting too much pressure on the hands.. of course bar height can mitigate some of this as well, but we all are still, effectively, a cantilever when we are sitting on the bike and must account for that balance point.. I'm at the heaviest I've ever been currently and I assume as I lose body mass up top (where most men carry their fat), I will be able to bring the saddle forward a bit (to a point, of course).. Steve Hogg and Neill Stanbury (bike fitters, both in Australia I believe) are big believers in getting riding at a moderately hard pace on a trainer (or outside if you are a good bike handler) and gently swinging your arms back behind you from the hoods (or drops depending on fitter).. if you immediately start to fall forward, your saddle is probably too far forward.. if you can maintain your torso position (you might start to fall after 15-30 sec, core probably plays into this as well), you are probably in a good position.. I assume this would work with a Brooks-type saddle as well, but can't confirm.. **if you are running alt bars, I don't imagine this is relevant..
Chris, needing to lose some fat in Sonoma County.. ... I measure setback on both bikes and the Fargo is coming out as saddle 5.5cm setback from BB, 7cm on the Roadini.
There's the reason for the difference. I've always (well, since Grant taught me to do this 30 years ago) started assembly and fit with saddle height, setback, and angle, then, after getting the saddle in place, put the bar a more or less standard distance from and height below the saddle nose. I do modify bar reach and height for bikes used off road but my body position is much the same on all my bikes even if my bar is higher but further forward.
Sometimes a more reward position can be more comfortable because it takes weight off your shoulders, etc, because when butt-back and bent forward sufficiently your torso muscles carry more of the weight.
Of course, you have to decide what a good setback is for comfort (including weight off your shoulders, arms, and hands) and power and handling -- also, how you'll use the bike: see below -- but in my case bb setback is about the same for all my bikes.
... Now we get to what I think is the most important part of fitting a bicycle, the fore-aft position of the saddle. Once you get this right, everything else is easy. This position is determined more by how you intend to use your bike than by anything else. If you look at a typical bike, the saddle is behind the crank center, or bottom bracket. There's a frame tube (the seat tube) running from the cranks to the saddle, and it's at an angle. That angle partly determines the fore-aft position of the saddle relative to the cranks and pedals. That fore-aft position determines how your body is balanced on the bicycle. Your balance determines how comfortable you are, and how efficiently you can pedal the bike.
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