Thanks for all of the suggestions and ideas, folks! 

Switching the arm order like Joe suggested made it a lot easier to mount 
the arms and likely reduced the stress on the bolt. I also added some 
washers like Ben suggested and that probably reduced the stress as well. 
I'd love to try the lock nut trick you mentioned, Garth, but I didn't have 
any handy. I'll keep it in mind for future applications.
On Tuesday 15 October 2024 at 08:57:47 UTC-7 Ben R wrote:

> okay so funny I saw this post as I just put a marks rack on my Sussie.
> I had the same problem but it was fine.
> I had to loosen the strut nuts on the rack but not too much or it will be 
> annoying and fall out as you're trying to get it adjusted.
> when I ran the struts to the mid fork drop out had space. I got longer m5 
> hardware and ran a few washers as well
> I went m5 head, washer, strut 1, washer, strut 2 then drop out. 
> I did onside first and only got the bold in like 3/4 of the way then did 
> the other side to get it in.  it will be a little tricky on he second side. 
>  its semi I pain trying to triangulate the struts and get it in the drop 
> out but once you're in it should be fine. I did run some "removable" 
> loctite on the screws as well.  I plan on not removing the rack.
> when I mounted my pass n stow I had maybe a half inch on either side 
> sticking over. way more then I did on my marks rack so I will go ahead and 
> say is fine, but its kind of a pain in the ass dealing with the play and 
> then trying to triangulate the struts. 
> [image: IMG_0567.jpg]
> [image: IMG_0660.jpg]
> [image: IMG_0661.jpg]
> [image: IMG_0662.jpg]
> On Saturday, October 12, 2024 at 1:11:53 AM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>
>> It just so happens that presta valve lock nuts can be used as threaded 
>> spacers on any M5 threadling, be it rack bolts or water bottle cages. I've 
>> used them for both. You may need longer M5 bolts depending on how long the 
>> ones used are to begin with. 
>>
>> The stays can be bent to fit better. Do this is pairs, off the bike.
>>
>> Also, try attaching the bottom rack stay bolts first, then the top sides 
>> of the rack and see if there is a difference in how the stays all conform 
>> to the angle. 
>>
>> The rods can also be attached from the in-side, rather than the outer. 
>> The hardware is completely reversable. 
>>
>> All in all there are many ways to secure the rack. 
>> On Saturday, October 12, 2024 at 1:08:16 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> There's several things going on here that could alleviate the issue 
>>> somewhat.
>>>
>>> The pics at rivbike show the arms swapped around at the fork eyelet. The 
>>> shorter rod pointing straight down will have a steeper angle so you want 
>>> the longer/forward arm to mount first, then the short one on the outside. 
>>> Also you can spin the rods around so the flat side is facing the fork 
>>> instead of concave, this will set the arms slightly further away from the 
>>> fork. Does that make sense? 
>>>
>>> Originally this rack used a tongue to mount under caliper brakes at the 
>>> fork and only had the longer forward arms. My (vague) memory is I mounted 
>>> the top of the rods (after cutting) inside the top of the rack and flush 
>>> with it. They don't have to mount on the outside. 
>>>
>>> Joe Bernard 
>>>
>>> [image: Screenshot_20241011_215955.jpg]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, October 11, 2024 at 5:41:21 PM UTC-7 Ian Buckley wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hey folks,
>>>>
>>>> I took the rack off another bike, but it seems quite wide for my 
>>>> Appaloosa which is strange because I think it was designed for it. Has 
>>>> anyone had this same experience?
>>>>
>>>> When the arms aren't bolted down, there are gaps about 3/16" wide on 
>>>> both sides between the arms and the fork. This hasn't stopped me from 
>>>> bolting them on and loading the rack, but it makes me a bit anxious to put 
>>>> so much pressure on the bolts. 
>>>>
>>>> Excuse the bad photo and my dirty bike. Red circles to highlight the 
>>>> gaps.
>>>>
>>>> Ian in Victoria
>>>>
>>>> [image: 1000013809.jpg]
>>>>
>>>

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